More green than red, white, blue

Festival for the Eno mixes environmentalism with family fun

DURHAM -- If the Woodstock hippie festival grew up, cut its hair and got a job, it might look like this today: families frolicking under shade trees amid orderly rows of artisans, craftsmen, musicians and nature exhibits. Completely sober and fully clothed, of course.

In its 29th year, the Festival for the Eno is an environmentalists' dream that has become bourgeois chic. The admission fees paid by this year's expected 30,000 visitors will finance continued land acquisition to expand the state park that today includes about 30 miles of protected riverbank.

Staffed by 1,000 volunteers, the event runs like clockwork and features 90 artisan stalls, 40 nonprofit booths and 20 food vendors spread over 60 acres of meadow and woodland. The public arrives and departs by air-conditioned tour coach, bused in from a nearby stadium parking lot. Alcohol is not allowed.

But despite its respectability and sanitized image, the festival has remained true to its earthy roots.

On Independence Day, there were no ostentatious displays of military regalia. Most of the American flags could be found at the Republican Party information booth.

"It's more green than red, white and blue," said Judy Robertson, a Durham resident who comes every year. "Nobody's forcing you to become a tree-hugger, but, by gum, they're pointing you in the right direction."

The vendor stalls are a utopian version of a shopping mall, specializing in hand-crafted merchandise.

For $100, you could walk away with a didgeridoo made by Rob Yard, a Virginia instrument maker. It's a 4-foot long bamboo reed played by natives of New Zealand and Australia. One by one, curiosity seekers unsuccessfully tried their lung capacity on the tricky, demanding instrument. Played correctly, it drones like a foghorn.

"It's a whole different trip," Yard said, catching his breath after a didgeridoo demo.

Down the way, Marty Broda was selling Gaia spirit sticks, wands and dream-catchers. These Native American crafts items are adorned with feathers, bones and stones. She pulled out an ornate staff priced at $250 for anyone ready to drop some serious money.

Other booths feature pottery, jewelry, garden sculptures and wooden toys. Falun Gong believers, persecuted in China, explained their sacred tenets a few yards from a class on painting rain barrels.

"This could have been a parking lot 20 years ago, paved over," said Robertson, shielded by a giant shade tree. "I get exposed to things. Where else do you see cloggers? Or the African American Dance Ensemble of Durham -- what a treasure."

Back at the Republican booth, Ken Chandler surveyed the scene with mild amusement. As a conservative candidate for the state Senate, Chandler argues that only people with military experience should be allowed to run for public office and run the country. He defiantly pulls out a Marlboro cigarette and adjusts his cowboy hat.

A passer-by comments that Chandler should stop distributing his campaign fans: They're not biodegradable and therefore not kosher.

"I don't know what 'biodegradable' is," Chandler remarks, defending his political paraphernalia. "I'm having a good time. Folks are folks."