City of sisterly love

Durham, England, reveals its splendor to a visitor from Durham, N.C.

DURHAM, England -- Oxford. Cambridge. Durham. ... Durham?

Although this northeastern English city of 43,000 doesn't enjoy the international prestige or proximity to London of its rival university towns, don't let that keep you from visiting.

Durham, an official Sister City of Durham, N.C., is an underrated destination. In his ''Notes From a Small Island,'' Bill Bryson calls it ''a perfect little city. If you have never been to Durham, go there at once. Take my car. It's wonderful.''

As if Bryson hadn't done enough good for the city with his now oft-repeated description, the Iowa native and once-again English resident was appointed chancellor of Durham University in 2005. (It's an honorary position, so he's still writing books.)

Not knowing of the author's generous car-loan offer ahead of time, we arrived from Newcastle, 15 minutes away on the train, in late September.

Before leaving home, I'd asked Scott Hill, one of the Durham Sister City coordinators, what I should see there.

''Oh my God, the cathedral," Hill said. "It's magnificent. Go to the tower at the top."

That was all she offered. Figuring it would take all of 30 minutes, I pumped her for more information, scribbling notes.

''The walk along the river. The college -- it's in a castle. Market Square. Town Hall. Crook Hall.''

OK, I thought, that should keep us occupied for the afternoon.

From the train station, we crossed over the River Wear, which wraps around the city, for the 15-minute walk to the tourist information center. We were disappointed to learn that Crook Hall, a medieval manor house, was closed for the season, and that historic Town Hall/Guildhall, displaying coats of arms from medieval guilds, was closed for renovations.

We would have to find other things to do. But at least we would be able to catch one of the last regular castle tours before school started back up.

On the way to the castle, we followed cobblestone streets to the Market Place, the bustling city center that in medieval times hosted farmers, peddlers and entertainers. A monthly farmers' market and a Saturday market are still held outdoors, but the rest of the action has moved inside where the mazelike space holds everything from housewares to fast-food vendors, few of them memorable. We bought chips smothered in gravy and went back outside.

On the street below the market was a much different experience.

Fowlers Yard, on the bank of the river, is a small strip of red-bricked art and artisan studios open to the public. Among the riches being made: stained glass, gold jewelry, embroidered goods and photography. The cozy Leonard's Coffee House is just across the street.

From the main square we walked up a fashionable shopping street, passing several vennels, or narrow alleyways, until we located the steep course up to the castle and cathedral, which sit side by side.

Entering from the back side, we couldn't see much until we reached the lawn between the two World Heritage sites. Once we saw these hugely commanding buildings, we knew we would be here for the rest of the day.

We started at the castle, which houses 80 of the 600 students who attend University College, the first of 16 colleges under Durham University. The school was founded in 1832, while the castle dates to 1072, when William the Conqueror ordered it built to keep the raiding Scots at bay. It's now the world's oldest university dorm.

Simon, our tour guide, led our group of 12 past the Tudor kitchen with two massive 15th-century fireplaces and into the great hall, à la ''Harry Potter,'' where students still dine. We trudged up the ''black stairs,'' a horizontally challenged set of massive black oak stairs that Simon declared to be structurally sound, to a dorm hall with rock music blaring through the 11th-century walls. In another room we came upon upperclassmen busily preparing for Freshers Week, when clubs and societies court incoming students.