News & Observer | newsobserver.com | Knives

Published: Mar 26, 2008 12:00 AM
Modified: Mar 26, 2008 06:49 AM

Knives

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The expert

We have a knife expert in our midst. Chad Ward of Cary has a new book coming out in early June: "An Edge in the Kitchen: The Ultimate Guide to Kitchen Knives -- How to Buy Them, Keep Them Razor Sharp, and Use Them Like a Pro" (William Morrow). In his book, Ward aims to debunk what he considers "The Great Knife Myths" -- that forged knives with a full tang and a bolster are best.

The basics

First, a few definitions. The tang is the extension of the blade that runs the full length of the handle. The bolster is the thick collar between the blade and the handle. Both are believed to add weight and balance to a knife.

Forged German knives with a full tang and a bolster were the perceived gold standard for many decades, Ward says. But in the 1980s, Japanese companies came out with lightweight, extremely sharp knives made by machines that were as good as the German knives. Those Japanese knives, which were first used by professional chefs, are now used by home cooks.

Myths

About those myths: A full tang isn't necessary, Ward says. Samurai swords, Viking axes and the Bowie knife didn't have full tangs. And a full bolster, he says, prevents the blade from being fully sharpened and can cause the premature death of a knife. The heft that a full tang and a full bolster add to a knife can cause repetitive stress injuries.

As for forged knives, Ward insists that high-end stamped knives undergo the same heat treatment and finishing and can be as good or better than forged knives.

For consumers, Ward recommends two Japanese knife makers, Global and MAC, and one German company, Messermeister, which adopted the Japanese technology of a highly polished edge that stays sharper longer.

Matching sets

The other myth that Ward tries to debunk in his book is that consumers need a full knife set. "You need two knives, period. A chef's knife and a paring knife," Ward says. "Throw in a bread knife and you own the world."

Ward argues that it is better to invest in those two or three knives, than to spend your money on a set of knives. He recommends buying a block separately and building a knife set.

"Mismatched handles in your knife block is the sign of a self-assured chef," Ward says.

Finally, to care for your knives, Ward recommends having them professionally sharpened twice a year. Home cooks should use a steeling blade once a week to keep them sharp, he says.

Where to buy

Beck's Cutlery, 107 S. Edinburgh Drive, Cary, 27511, (919) 460-0203

United Restaurant Equipment Co., 2654 S. Saunders St., Raleigh, 27603, (919) 832-4546

A Southern Season, University Mall, 201 S. Estes Drive, Chapel Hill, 27514, (919) 929-7133

Knife recommendations

Paring knife

Ward recommends the MAC PKF30, above left, for about $34, Messermeister Meridian Elite for about $40 or Wusthof Cordon Blue for $30. For a bargain, Beck says Forschner/Victorinox also makes a paring knife, which costs about $5.

Chef's knife

Ward recommends an 8-inch chef's knife made by any of these companies: MAC, Global or Messermeister. He likes these models, MAC MTH-80 for about $70 and the Messermeister Meridian Elite 8-inch, above, for about $90.

For a bargain, both Ward and Ron Beck of Beck's Cutlery in Cary, recommend the Forschner 8-inch chef's knife made by Victorinox, the Swiss Army knife company. It costs $25.

Bread knife

Ward recommends two options: Either buy one for $12, use for two years and throw it away; or buy one to last a lifetime, a MAC SB105 10-inch bread knife, above right, for about $55 or Wusthof Superslicer for about $80.

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andrea.weigl@newsobserver.com or (919) 829-4848
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