News & Observer | newsobserver.com | Preparing for Passover? Try these picks of the vine

Published: Apr 16, 2008 12:00 AM
Modified: Apr 16, 2008 06:58 AM

Preparing for Passover? Try these picks of the vine

 

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Telling Kosher Wines

Often a wine bottle's label will indicate its kosher status.

Kosher: Hebrew for "fit" or "proper." Look for an encircled letter, such as "U" (which means it has been certified as kosher by the Orthodox Union), "K" (OK Kosher Certification) or "KA" (Kosher Australia certification).

Kosher for Passover: Often indicated by an encircled letter or letters such as "U," "K" or "KA" with a "P" next to it. This indicates that the wine has passed the even stricter kosher standards for Passover.

Mevushal (pronounced meh-VOO-shell): Mevushal wines are those that have been pasteurized via flash-heating. These can be handled by non-Jews (such as caterers or waiters) and remain kosher.

Kosher winemakers to keep an eye out for: Capcanes (Spanish reds), Carmel, Castel (100 percent chardonnay "C" blanc and cabernet-based Grand Vin), Covenant (cabernet sauvignon), Galil, Golan, Goose Bay, Herzog Wine Cellars and its value-priced Baron Herzog line, Psagot (Edom), Rothschild and Yarden.

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Kosher wines are achieving their own deliverance. If your idea of wine for Passover stops with Manischewitz, think again. Coming into their own, quality kosher wines are being made in such places as Israel, the United States, France, Argentina, Chile and South Africa.

We paired these recommendations, all kosher for Passover, with common Passover food:

Gefilte fish: Pop open a bottle of 2000 Yarden Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine ($27) from Galilee, and enjoy the refreshing lemony acidity on the front and blueberry finish of this delightful bubbly. Or go straight for the perfect match in the 2006 Goose Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($20; mevushal, see tips box at right). Its bright pear and lemon-peel flavors replace the usual New Zealand grapefruit zing.

Chopped liver: The spicy floral nose of the 2007 Yarden Gewürztraminer ($18) from Galilee gives way to honeyed peach fruitiness, and serving it very cold heightened its refreshing acidity, complementing chopped liver beautifully. (We polished off our bottle with Indian curry.)

Roasted chicken or turkey: Either is nicely paired with a medium-bodied 2005 Yarden Odem Organic Vineyard Chardonnay ($18-$21) from the Odem Vineyard in Galilee.

Beef brisket: Luscious red wines can do justice to all manner of beef and lamb. The 2004 Herzog Special Reserve Edna Valley Syrah ($30-$34) won our hearts, with its tart black cherry and cooked-plum flavors, soft-to-medium tannins and balanced acidity.

Flourless chocolate cake: Made in Israel from 100 percent pomegranate (known as rimon in ancient times), the unusual, quite full-bodied (at 15 percent alcohol) and deeply flavored Rimon Winery Black Label Pomegranate Dessert Wine ($36) has tart, cranberrylike fruitiness balanced by its own natural sweetness that contrasts perfectly with a rich, dark-chocolate dessert.

Macaroons: Coconut cookies will find a lively pairing in the 2005 Carmel Winery Shaal Single Vineyard Late Harvest Gewürztraminer ($18-$20).

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Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page are authors of "What to Drink With What You Eat."
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