Where to stay

Casa Barco: Modern but charming 25-room hotel with swimming pool and views of the surf breaks. Doubles from $55. Avenida Punta Hermosa, 340. 51-1-230-7081, www.casabarco.com/puntahermosa.

Luisfer Surf Camp: Hard-core surf safarians bunk up at this no-frills hostel, which offers Polynesian-style decor and meal times based on the tides. Bunk rates are $16 a night and include three meals a day. A block off the main beach, Calle 1. 51-1-230-7280.

Where to eat

Donde Luis: Argentine-run cafe filled with antique furniture and surfers dressed in their best flip-flops. Dinner, including delicious pizzas, salads and wine, about 50 sols (about $18.20 at 2.75 sols to the dollar). Frente la Playa, Punta Hermosa.

El Piloto: Classic 1940s roadside restaurant with murals of bullfighters, bamboo ceilings and long tables of families and truck drivers sharing ceviche (55 sols) and the spicy river shrimp (also 55 sols). Panamerica Sur, Kilometer 138, San Luis. 51-1-284-4114.

Surf tours and guides

Contact former national surf champion Luis Miguel (Magoo) de la Rosa, who has the insider tips and water smarts. 51-19-9810-1988, www.magoosurfperu.com.

Mancora

Getting there

From Lima, fly to Piura on Aerocondor (www.aerocondor.com.pe; 51-1-614-6014), then take a 2-hour taxi ride to Mancora (about $50).

Where to stay

Del Wawa: The epicenter of the local surf scene. The small hotel has an excellent beachside fusion restaurant. Surf lessons are $15 an hour; board rentals $5 an hour. Doubles start at $25. Avenida Piura, Frente al Point. www.delwawa.com.

Sunset Hotel: An upscale alternative. Boutique hotel has six suites, a secluded beach and a romantic restaurant. Doubles start at $73. Avenida Antigua Panamericana Norte, 196. www.hotelsunset.com.pe.

Where to eat

La Sirena: Exquisite nouvelle Asian-Peruvian fusion, known as novoandia, in a little garden off the main drag. Dinner for two with wine, 108 sols. Panamericana Norte. 316. 51-19-9811-5737.

El Tuno: Bright orange Peruvian-Italian restaurant features an accordion player and specialties such as tuna tartare with shaved avocado and mango salsa (50 sols). Panamerica Norte, 233. 51-19-9408-2410.

Surf tours and guides

Try booking Octopus Surf Tours. Marco Antonio "Pulpo" Ravizza knows all the secret breaks and cevicherias. $895 for the week, including lodging, three meals a day and all gear. 51-19-9400-5518, www.wavehunters.com/peru/Nperu.asp.