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Swimsuits go retro and modest

- The Washington Post

Published: Mon, Jun. 30, 2008 12:00AM

Modified Mon, Jun. 30, 2008 01:38AM

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String bikinis are not the flavor fashionistas are serving up for summer '08.

(Insert audible sigh of relief here.)

Instead, think Betty Grable and Bettie Page, Marilyn Monroe and Esther Williams. Think Miranda, looking chic -- and covered -- when hanging out by the pool in "Sex and the City."

Shopping for a new swimsuit?

This year, do your homework before heading into the fitting room. Identify your body type, then choose suits according to these shape-specific guidelines.

If you're curvy:

  • Choose one-piece suits with waist-slimming details, like a wrap, a crisscross or ruching to emphasize a tiny waist.
  • Avoid skimpy string bikinis and instead look for wide bands to help streamline your look.
  • Bottom-heavy women should pair eye-catching patterned tops with solid bottoms.

If you have few curves:

  • Go for big prints and bright colors.
  • A belt can help create a waist.
  • Choose high-cut legs and low-cut necklines.

If you're petite:

  • Small frames can be overwhelmed by large prints, so stick to delicate patterns or solids.
  • Deep V-necks and halter styles help make your torso appear longer -- and high-cut legs do the same for your gams.

Think about how a little well-placed ruching can do a lot to disguise a Buddha belly.

This season's suits are taking their cues from days gone by, with the artful use of ruffles and draping, halters and silhouettes that cinch in the waist and pump up the bosom without exposing every nook and cranny. The effect: Grown-up. Sophisticated. Seductive yet demure.

Since fashion reflects our cultural zeitgeist -- the miniskirt is a symbol of economic optimism, etc. -- what do we make of this swimwear sobriety?

"People are looking for some kind of armor," says Kelly Killoren Bensimon, author of "The Bikini Book." "It's reminiscent of a different time, the '50s, a time when we thought we were secure and protected."

Valerie Steele, director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, thinks we might be getting bored with exposing ever more flesh, summer after summer. "It's partly a pendulum swing," she says.

Then again, plain old pragmatism may be the impetus here. Big-name fashion houses like Bottega Veneta and Stella McCartney have gotten into the bathing suit act. If you've got to fork over big bucks for one of their swimsuits, it better consist of a little more than a couple of triangles and some string.

"Bikinis can be difficult to wear," Steele says. "There's a lot of glamour that goes with retro bathing suits -- as well as more camouflage."

Hear, hear.

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