The Intimidator of Neomonde

Cecilia Saleh is the matriarch of the family behind the Neomonde deli and bakery enterprises in Raleigh and Morrisville.

Saleh came to the United States on Aug. 16, 1976, along with many other family members who fled Lebanon during a civil war. Saleh's brother, Moussa Domit, was then director of the N.C. Museum of Art in Raleigh. Domit urged Saleh's sons to start a bakery to make French bread, which at the time was shipped in from New York, and pita bread.

With $20,000 of the uncle's savings, the brothers started a bakery business. More than 30 years later, they have two retail locations, one in Raleigh and the other in Morrisville. They also have a wholesale business that sells baked goods to restaurants and grocery stores. The family business now brings in more than $5 million in revenue annually.

The Salehs plan to open an upscale Lebanese restaurant called Siti by Neomonde in downtown Raleigh this fall.

Cecilia Saleh's four sons and a daughter work in the business. At the age of 80, Cecilia still works at the Raleigh store six hours a day, Monday through Friday.

Since her English is good but not great, her son, Sam Saleh, agreed to translate when necessary during this interview. Here is their joint interview:

What did you think about your brother's idea for the family to start a food business?

"Well, I'm ready," she says. "My brother had an idea for my children."

Sam adds: "She liked it because she could start to express her ideas with the food."

What do you do in the kitchen?

"I'm checking the food -- the stove, the salad, the meat," she says.

Sam says: "She's the inspector. She doesn't want to admit it but she's the intimidator."

So what is this I hear about you blessing all the food before it is served to customers?

"Sure," she says. "Every day."

Her son adds: "With all the dishes, she asks God for the blessing so the food will be healthy for the people, nourishment for the body so they will feel better."

Will you be in the kitchen in the new restaurant?

Sam translates what his mother said: "If God gives her the strength, she will be there."

In English, she says, "Every food, every vegetable is fresh. Everything is fresh. Nothing frozen. Nothing fast in the oven. No microwave."

Sam explains that those are his mother's rules for the kitchen, and any chef they hire will have to meet her approval.

Who taught you how to cook?

"My family. I had six children. I make food at home," she says. "My mom, older people, I watch them. No school. I like food. I make it."