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Savory slices of life

- Correspondent

Published: Fri, Aug. 08, 2008 12:00AM

Modified Fri, Aug. 08, 2008 01:37AM

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Why get the same boring bites, when sandwich shops are increasingly trying to dazzle your palate?

When is the last time you ate a sandwich? I'll bet it was within the last week. What's more, I've got a dill pickle spear and a bag of potato chips that say your sandwich was OK, but not one of the best you've ever had.

Granted, that's not a very risky bet. The sandwich is universally popular, after all, thanks to its portability and infinite variability. It's a staple in virtually everyone's diet, so commonly -- and often, hurriedly -- consumed that we tend to think of it as little more than mere fuel consumed on the go. And, let's face it, it isn't that difficult to make a sandwich that satisfies that minimum requirement.

Unfortunately, the overwhelming majority of sandwich shops are content to do just that. And because we don't generally think of the humble sandwich as a culinary creation on the level of, say, a perfect soufflé, we often settle for mediocrity. So what if the bacon is skimpy and the tomato mealy on our BLT, or if the corned beef on our Reuben tastes of little more than salt? It's just a sandwich, right?

Wrong. It isn't too much to ask that a sandwich be made with as much care and attention to detail as a meal at a sit-down restaurant. Indeed, as a small, but growing, number of area sandwich shops are proving, it's possible to make sandwiches so good that they transcend the genre. Just check out the goods at these four counter-service eateries, all coincidentally in the western Triangle, and taste for yourself.

In fact, I'll wager you double or nothing that you'll find yourself slowing down so that you can savor every bite.

Guglhupf

2706 Durham Chapel Hill Blvd., Durham

401-2600

www.guglhupf.com

The granddaddy of sandwich artisans in the Triangle, Guglhupf will celebrate its 10th anniversary in November. The eatery's claim to fame is its in-house bakery, which turns out a variety of Old World-style breads and pastries. Indeed, Guglhupf sourdough and rye loaves are the foundation for the sandwiches at a number of other area premium sandwich shops in the area.

Good as it is, the bread isn't the only thing that makes a Guglhupf sandwich special. Every bit as much attention is paid to what goes between the slices. Turkey breast is roasted on the premises and paired with crisp cucumber slices, watercress and fresh basil aioli for one popular sandwich. House-roasted leg of lamb is piled with sliced tomatoes (local when in season) and minted yogurt sauce on rustic bread. A vegetarian sandwich featuring roasted beets, arugula and a mix of blue cheese and walnuts is an enduring favorite. And a current sandwich special serves up a locally made bratwurst, so juicy it spurts when you bite into it, with sauerkraut on a coppery, salt-crusted brezel sub roll.

Guglhupf's offering has expanded over the years and now includes a tempting assortment of salads, small plates and platters, as well as a breakfast menu and locally roasted coffees. Owner Claudia Cooper has plans for more changes, including offering full dinner service. Regardless of what the future brings, it's a good bet that Guglhupf will remain a sandwich shop at heart. And one of the best sandwich shops around, at that.

Neal's Deli

100-C E. Main St., Carrboro

967-2185

www.nealsdeli.com

Neal's Deli has only been open for four months, but the shop comes with an impressive built-in pedigree. Matt Neal, who owns the restaurant with his wife, Sheila, is the son of legendary Crook's Corner founder and chef Bill Neal.

ggcox@bellsouth.net

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