Explore Florida's farthest reaches

Fishing is just one of many alluring outdoor adventures in the Keys, a collection of 823 islands -- 30 inhabited -- that stretch 108 miles along U.S. 1 from Key Largo near the tip of the Florida mainland south to Key West. The majority of the area's 3.9 million annual visitors skip over the other islands and head straight to Key West. That's where the party is.

But I, on this four-day driving trip, found myself so in love with the Keys on the first 79-mile stretch, from Key Largo to Big Pine Key, that I never even made it to Key West.

Over the centuries, the Florida Keys have been home to prehistoric tribes, swashbucklers, notoriously bloodthirsty pirates, bootleggers and salvage operators who made great fortunes picking over numerous shipwrecks. Historic remains include what was left of wrecking stations on Indian Key in 1840, after more than 100 Indians attacked the port settlement.

Although the beaches on the Keys are few and small -- the one at Bahia Honda State Park is the major exception -- the islands have a Caribbean feel. Their underwater reefs offer excellent snorkeling and, along with shipwrecks, great diving opportunities. They have retained some of the flavor of old Florida, and some areas are as they must have been in the 1940s. Others must appear much as they did when Ponce de Leon sailed by, carrying home treasures from the New World.

More than a dozen parks and wildlife sanctuaries break up pockets of low-rise hotels and little B&Bs and campgrounds. Preservationists have done a good job of keeping the bulldozers at bay -- creating a balance of attractions and open space. Hit by Hurricane Wilma shortly after my visit, the Keys have largely recovered. "The tourism infrastructure is fully restored; all attractions are up and running," says Andy Newman, spokesman for the Keys Tourist Development Council.

The Keys are so laid-back that there is no rush to see everything. It took me only a couple of hours to ease into the pace.

On arrival in Key Largo, I headed straight to Strike Zone Charters on Big Pine Key and boarded a boat for a snorkeling tour. When we reached Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary, some snorkelers took so long climbing down the ladder that I exercised every bit of patience not to give them a good push.

But that evening, I found I'd been idling a good 10 minutes at a stop sign, waiting without a care for a crab to cross the intersection.

It's that kind of place.

KEY LARGO

On Key Largo, I had the honor of meeting Laura Quinn, a 77-year-old woman who shortly after retirement sold everything she owned to buy five acres of marshy land as a refuge for injured birds. There, in a tipsy house with a hospital on the ground floor, she lives alongside a huge collection of owls with broken wings, pelicans with cataracts and ibises with broken legs.

MILE MARKER 102.5 (OCEANSIDE): Snorkeling and diving the reefs at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park (305-451-1202, www.pennekamp-park.com) is practically Key Largo's reason for being. The park has camping, showering and picnic facilities. Park fee $3.50 per person, snorkeling $35.

MILE MARKER 100 (OCEANSIDE): Take a look at the African Queen (305-451-4655, www.keylargomarina.com; free) the boat in the Bogie and Hepburn movie --moored between the Ramada and Holiday Inn.

MILE MARKER 99.7 (OCEANSIDE): The Ramada Key Largo Resort and Marina (305-451-3939, www.ram adakeylargo.com; from $99) won't win any design awards, but even the standard rooms are huge. Ask to overlook the marina.

MILE MARKER 104.2 (BAYSIDE): Key Largo's boisterous Hobo's Cafe (305-451-5888) has friendly folks serving up generous portions of fish, burgers and salads with black beans and corn ($8.95) and a lip- smackin' Key lime pie ($3.95). Photos of race car drivers dot the wood-paneled room.