A challenge year-round

Owners hope kosher store will satisfy needs of Triangle Jews

DURHAM -- Sabra Kosher & Israeli Store may look like any other storefront in a strip center on a busy stretch of Hope Valley Road. But for Jews who observe strict laws of kashrut, the new market wedged in among a nail salon and an insurance office is a little oasis, a safe haven filled with products bearing the prized rabbinical seal of approval.

"It's an awesome thing," says Rabbi Zalman Bluming, director of the Chabad Jewish Center of Durham/Chapel Hill.

For years, kosher markets have struggled to remain in business in the Triangle. The last attempt was Eshel Kosher Market in Raleigh, which was open for almost three years before closing in November 2002.

While local mainstream grocery stores have increased their supplies of kosher products, kosher meats and cheeses are still scarce. Those meat-eaters who keep kosher often take coolers and stock up on visits to metro areas such as New York, Baltimore or D.C. or order in bulk from a kosher butcher in Atlanta who delivers to the Triangle every two months. Other items in short supply are those specifically labeled kosher for Passover, which observant Jews require for that holiday.

Sabra opened two months ago, in time for local Jews to start stocking up for Rosh Hashana, the new year that begins at sundown Friday. They are shopping for special items for meals to celebrate the new year.

"Some people like gefilte fish, and our challahs are all round instead of elongated, and we use raisin challahs at that time," says Greta Schiffman of Raleigh, an accomplished kosher cook who has catered professionally. She uses sweet potatoes in a traditional casserole called tzimmes and has already made her honey cakes.

And for the main course? "I went to Sabra Kosher and got a frozen brisket from them," Schiffman says.

Melissa Miller of Chapel Hill, a member of Durham's Temple Beth El, had already ordered her brisket from the Atlanta butcher. She keeps a freezer in her garage stocked with meats and hard-to-find kosher items.

But she has also started shopping at Sabra. "They give you a little more flexibility," she says. If you have unexpected visitors, "at least you could run there and get a chicken, and you could have a nice meal."

The name Sabra means "Israeli-born," but Sabra's proprietors Ester and Yossi Kiper are observant Jews who are natives of Brazil. After relocating to Miami, the Kipers were in the insurance business for seven years. But recent Florida hurricanes took a toll on them financially. They considered making a new start in the Triangle, and Yossi sought advice from a friend who lived here.

"She suggested he open a kosher food store," Ester recalls.

When they opened, the Kipers sought advice from their prospective customers about what to stock. The Triangle's Jewish community is scattered, and its members come from many places. A few are native Southerners, while others come from urban areas in New York or Los Angeles. Some had roots in the Ashkenazic (East European) traditions, while others were Sephardic (Middle Eastern and Mediterranean).

All had different favorite foods that they were craving and placed requests in a notebook the Kipers kept on the counter.

And so the shelves in the compact market are filled with kosher products from around the world. "People from Israel love these," Ester says, holding up single-serving bags of Bissli falafel snacks and Bamba peanut snacks.

Sephardic hummus, caponata and baba ghanoush share space in refrigerated cases with Ashkenazic garlic dill pickles, blintzes and horseradish with beets. Frozen dinners from around the globe include vegetarian schnitzel, potato kreplach and empanadas.