Bentley's retooled

Given Lou Moshakos' phenomenal success as a restaurateur -- in a little over a decade, his holdings have grown from a single Miami Subs franchise to an empire including Taverna Agora, Papa Lou's and several Carolina Ale House locations scattered all over the Triangle -- it's tempting to say that the man has an uncanny knack for marketing.

But Moshakos himself will tell you that his marketing "secret" involves nothing more mysterious than giving people what they want. Sometimes, as experience has taught him (Carolina Ale House's menu was revamped four times before hitting on the winning formula), giving people what they want means being flexible.

Bentley's at Crossroads is a prime example of Lou Moshakos' philosophy. The restaurant, which opened in September as Bentley's American Grill, has already undergone a name change. In part, the change was in response to comments from people who had a hard time finding the restaurant. More important, it reflects a recent major menu overhaul, whose most obvious effects are a de-emphasis of grilled dishes and a substantial reduction in prices.

Steaks and chops, which had been the focus of the original bill of fare, have been halved in number. The larger, more expensive cuts have been eliminated, and the remainder absorbed into an entree list whose options cover the spectrum from grilled chicken with capellini to crab cakes to broiled sea bass. Several of the more expensive entrees, such as shrimp and lobster in tomato cream sauce, and lamb chops a la moutarde, have also been dropped. They've been replaced, at little more than half the price, by the likes of Sicilian-style shrimp, grouper in beurre blanc, and ziti with smoked andouille sausage. Most of the appetizers and entrees that survived the cut have also seen price reductions.

As a result of the menu revision, the fat, juicy veal chop I enjoyed recently is no longer offered. Nor is the superb 16-ounce New York strip steak. But Bentley's steaks are still aged for at least 35 days, and they're cut in-house. Given Moshakos' customer-oriented philosophy, you might be able to persuade the kitchen to cut a thicker steak for a surcharge. At any rate, as long as chef Alex Azzam is in the kitchen, it's a good bet that the 12-ounce strip steak will provide ample consolation. Certainly, whenever larger cuts such as the veal chop -- or a similarly rewarding 10-ounce herb-crusted filet mignon -- are offered as a special, I'd jump at the chance.

I haven't had a chance to sample any of the recent menu additions, but I can recommend, with minor reservations, a couple of the entrees that have been carried over from the original list. Bouillabaisse serves up a bounty of fish and shellfish, for the most part beautifully cooked, in a spicy, garlicky tomato-flecked broth that would be even better if it had more of the saffron that defines the dish. And crab cakes, generously packed with crabmeat and served against a colorful backdrop of freshly roasted yellow corn, black beans and red pepper cream sauce, are more than respectable.

The crab cakes are also available as an appetizer, though I'd be hard-pressed to pass up the distinctive Parma sausage-stuffed banana peppers in their favor. If I were sharing, I'd probably opt for the rich, cheesy, and a little spicy, lobster and artichoke dip. The spinach and strawberry salad, a delightful medley of sweet-tart flavors when I sampled it at the peak of strawberry season, should make for a refreshingly light main course option now that it's topped with a rosemary-marinated grilled chicken breast.

Bentley's expansive dining room and bar, a rustically elegant study in mahogany, stone, rippled glass and gas flame sconces, manages to be at once romantic and casual. A well-trained wait staff follows suit, welcoming dating couples and families alike. Knowing Lou Moshakos' philosophy, I'm guessing that the menu overhaul was at least partially in response to those families, many of whom live in the nearby suburban neighborhoods that make up a large part of Bentley's customer base.

Given Moshakos' record, it's a good bet he's on the right track.