News & Observer | newsobserver.com | Betsey celebrates herself

Published: Feb 06, 2008 12:00 AM
Modified: Feb 06, 2008 07:29 AM

Betsey celebrates herself

A 30-year retrospective shows Johnson's timeless designs

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NEW YORK - Every fashion designer's line should be as lucky to look like Betsey Johnson's at 30.

In typical, fun-loving Betsey style, the 65-year-old designer celebrated 30 years in the fashion business Monday at Fashion Week with a post-runway show of 18 of her "favorite oldies."

It was a clever idea that simply added to a long list of reasons why people don't want to miss a Betsey Johnson runway show, from celebrities (such as Tyra Banks, who was front row at Monday's show) to Betsey's signature end-of-show cartwheel.

The best part about the oldies collection was how any one of the pieces could easily be worn today. That says plenty about Betsey Johnson and her commitment to knowing her customer, and over the years, sticking with her to create timeless pieces.

The old Betsey Johnson designs advanced the notion that most everything new on the runways has already been done, at least once.

Phillip Lim's exposed zippers? Betsey did that back in '85 on the front of a tightfitting minidress.

Maxi-length dresses from spring? Meet Betsey's "Posie" peplum maxiskirt from '83.

Trapeze dresses from last fall? Vintage Betsey from '84.

Meanwhile, her fall collection, part of a "beatnik chick" theme, was sleeker and darker than usual, yet as sassy with jaw-dropping hot pants and cutout dresses. She tempered that drama with standout pieces, such as a pleated, pink paisley chiffon dress, a bright blue cable sweater dress and a black suede tunic, all perfect for party hopping in the fall.

Betsey Johnson is sold at boutiques such as SoHo Clothing in Raleigh and department stores such as Belk at Crabtree Valley Mall.

Ports 1961, Herrera

The fashion show for Ports 1961, which has just started selling in North Carolina at Fine Feathers in Chapel Hill, was a lovely way to end a long day of mostly so-so shows Monday.

Sophisticated chic, the Ports line isn't cutting edge but rather relatively real-world wear that can easily go from office to evening with sweater dresses, sheaths and pencil skirts.

Ports creative director Tia Cibani, who relaunched the brand out of New York in 2004, said she was inspired for fall by the mythology of Gaelic tales and romantic Scotland, with its dark, moody winters.

So that helped explain all the earthy tones, including forest green, mustard yellow and limerick green, and the generous use of tweeds and wool in her collection.

Two favorites: an elegant black velvet cocktail dress with dainty cap sleeves and a slim-fitting cable sweater dress.

Carolina Herrera also said she was inspired by the outdoors, only her collection felt more upper crust English countryside than brooding Scottish moors. Her collection had "riding jackets that you might grab from the mudroom," Herrera noted in her program, and "crinkle chiffon gowns for elegant dinners on the farm."

That might not sound like life for most of us, but there were a few pieces in her rich collection that might translate well into everyday life. Among them: a wool double-face cape, velvet riding pants and a double-knit bomber jacket in what Herrera called "licorice."

Her trademark evening gowns and dresses stole the show, however, including a burgundy cocktail dress (paired with slouchy riding boots) and a rust-speckled organza gown with ostrich feathers around the bust.

Carolina Herrera is sold in North Carolina at Neiman Marcus in Charlotte.

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney isn't doing runway fashion shows at Fashion Week yet. Instead, the design house invited press to check out its pre-fall collection this week at the company showroom in Chelsea.

All that Stella in one room is simply breathtaking, if not a tad overwhelming. The collection included anything from bikinis to sheer boyfriend sweaters.

McCartney is among the many designers focused on detailing for fall, with a series of dresses and tops with vertical pleating and a few tiered, ruffled blouses. She also joined others by using rich colors for fall, including grass green, bright orange and purple.

You'll be able to view at least some of it when the fall collection begins arriving in late summer at Vermillion in Raleigh.

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