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Next up, the crab cakes with a mango-jicama slaw, the same slaw that has been giving the kitchen staff fits. Overbeck was not pleased with the last version, which he says had too much jalapeño. Because the crab cakes are served with a spicy chipotle mayonnaise, he says, you have to give diners something on the plate to cool their mouths.

This latest version -- without mint or jalapeño -- isn't cutting it, either.

"I think I like the other slaw better," Overbeck says.

Dorrance disagrees. "I like this one. It's giving you the coolness."

Stumb asks Overbeck, "Do you miss the mint?"

"I'd like to try the other slaw again with the mint but without the jalapeño," he says.

Back to the drawing board on the slaw.

The critics move on to the chiles rellenos, a poblano pepper stuffed with rice, vegetables, almonds, raisins and Chihuahua cheese topped with an almond cream sauce. Neither Dorrance nor Overbeck is pleased: too heavy, not enough flavor.

Next, roasted chicken. They debate whether the chicken is overcooked. They loved the black bean chilaquiles on the side.

And finally, the churros. They are light and airy, not the leaden deep-fried dough served too often at Mexican restaurants. They come with a cup of Mexican hot chocolate. They are a hit.

"That's really good," Overbeck declares.

Anticipating the demand

In 1986, members of The Chapel Hill Restaurant Group opened Squid's Restaurant, Market and Oyster Bar in a spot along U.S. 15-501 that hadn't been kind to prior restaurant tenants. The partners have built a successful restaurant chain by, in part, having a knack for opening businesses in what would become booming locales. In 1992, when the western end of Franklin Street was deserted, they opened 411 West Italian Cafe. In 1998, they repeated the concept with 518 West in Glenwood South before that area became the center of Raleigh's bar scene.

Mez will be off Interstate 40 on Page Road in Research Triangle Park, another area whose potential only they may recognize. "We're a little ahead of the curve out there," Overbeck concedes.

But the partners predict that both RTP and the migration of subdivisions closer to the park will make Mez a success.

Almost three years ago, these business partners decided that their next venture would be a modern Mexican restaurant, something more sophisticated than chips and salsa and cheese-laden enchiladas. The group's research began by eating at one of the country's best Mexican restaurants: Rick Bayless' Frontera Grill in Chicago.

When Overbeck, Dorrance and Ewell traveled to Chicago, they also discovered the Adobo Grill, a restaurant they thought could be a model for their restaurant, as opposed to the high-end Frontera Grill. They befriended the owners and sent Stumb to work in the kitchen at Adobo Grill. Then they hired Peraza, who used to own a contemporary Mexican restaurant in Florida.

The partners decided on a Mexican restaurant for their next venture before the owners of the local El Rodeo chain opened Jibarra, a Mexican fine dining establishment in North Raleigh, in late 2005.

But Overbeck says Mez isn't aiming as high. In the same vein as their other restaurants, Overbeck says, they want to offer "casual fine dining." Mez will offer regional Mexican cuisine made with local ingredients, with entrees ranging from $9 to $24.

As the days count down to the restaurant's opening, the tastings continue. The deadline may be influencing the feedback, Peraza says. "They're getting a little tougher as the date comes closer to opening," he says.

Even when they settle on a menu for the first night, it will still be a work in progress. Both Overbeck and Dorrance say the making of their menu is likely to continue for weeks and months to come.

That's the right idea, says Diane Morgan, a restaurant consultant and cookbook author based in Portland, Ore.

"If you are smart, it's ongoing," she says. "You can see the ones that have the huge dollars to advertise: Applebee's, Olive Garden. They are forever changing something. You have to."

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