So it is with HBO's "The Wire," an epic series that spans the street, the police force, City Hall, the press, the school system and the invisible hands that guide them all in the crime-ridden city of Baltimore.

The series, created by former Baltimore Sun reporter David Simon, officially charts ratings that average fewer than 1 million viewers per episode, but that doesn't account for the untold numbers who rent one of the first four seasons on DVD then wind up watching episodes back-to-back like hungry dieters scarfing cookies in the middle of the night. What the show can claim in abundance is critical acclaim and loyal fandom. When "The Wire" ends its run this Sunday with the fifth-season finale at 9 p.m., you can bet there'll be viewing parties in homes and dorm rooms throughout the country and in the Triangle.

And, as it was at parties for last year's "Sopranos" series finale, the food served will likely stick to a theme -- in this case, Baltimore, where "The Wire" was shot. Any true "Wire" fanatic can tell you about the food on the show, down to what brand of crab chips the characters eat.

So how can Triangle viewers bring the flavors of Baltimore and "The Wire" into their homes? The News & Observer talked to "Wire" cast members Tristan Wilds (who plays teen criminal Michael Lee) and former Sun reporter William F. Zorzi (who plays reporter "Bill Zorzi") to get a feel for the local cuisine. We also talked to "Wire" fans Anthony Wilson, a WTVD news anchor who grew up in Baltimore; Dean Ogan, owner of Rocky Top Hospitality, which owns Michael Dean's, Hi5, Red Room, Twisted Fork, Bogart's and 1705 Prime; and Eric Tschudi, an N.C. State student and frequent poster to The Wolf Web's "Wire" chat.

First, feel free to test your "Wire" knowledge by matching the food and spirits with the characters or group most closely associated with them. The answers, along with party-food tips, are on page 4E.

Recipes

Yellow Pepper Coulis

Crab Cakes