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Published: Feb 05, 2008 12:00 AM
Modified: Feb 05, 2008 07:00 AM

Skirts are back

After seasons of dress dominance, separates and layers take spotlight

NEW YORK - Ladies, let me reintroduce you to something you might have long forgotten in your closet: the skirt.

Virtually banished from the runways three seasons ago when dresses took over, skirts have made a triumphant return to New York Fashion Week. After just three days of shows, most designers have sent almost as many separates, dominated by skirts, down the runways as they have dresses.

Pencil skirts by Adam, circle skirts by Abaete, pleated skirts by Tracy Reese and Lela Rose and miniskirts by Herve Leger.

Even the wrap dress queen herself, Diane von Furstenberg, had a few, including an evergreen twill double-knit skirt that she paired with a cashmere Henley and plissé blouse.

Despite with the vast appeal of the simplicity of the dress, the skirt is refreshing change after seeing some shows in the past year that were almost completely dresses. They can expand the outfit choices in your wardrobe, and they can easily take you through all the seasons if you pick one in the right fabric.

And in the fall they'll be plentiful in a wide range of fabrics as well as styles. Reese did a slim skirt in copper and wood sequins. Von Furstenberg had one in midnight blue made of mohair herringbone. And Adam Lippes of the line Adam designed a pleated skirt of leather.

The problem is most designers have been piling on the layers creating complex looks that border on don't-try-this-at-home. They're starting with a skirt, then adding a blouse and a vest, a jacket or a coat, and then tying it all together with a skinny belt.

Don't fret if you've stuffed your closet full with dresses. The look is still strong for fall, with less of the volume shown this past fall and this spring and more of a Jackie Kennedy sophisticated propriety, with slim-fitting sheaths, fun-loving flapper dresses and a variety of cozy, chic sweater dresses.

Among the standouts include a purple sheath with purple sleeves from Abaete and a long, skinny oatmeal sweater coat by Tracy Reese.

Lacoste

Imagine Rene Lacoste, Lacoste's French founder, back in the '20s, off skiing in Megève, France, (because he and pals were disenchanted with St. Moritz, of course). What would a contemporary Lacoste wear on the same ski holiday today?

That was Christophe Lemaire's vision for his fall runway show Saturday. First, they set the scene, covering the runway and front row with yards of sheepskin and creating a faux snowstorm at the end of the runway.

It all makes sense in the beginning with a collection of understated thick sweaters and long scarves in shades of white and gray, apparently the look of Megève back in the day.

The show then moved into a Jamaican theme, with shirts, scarves and socks in bold stripes of black, gold, red and green.

And finally, we're back to the slopes, with après-ski wear that might have been Megève 1984 of pastel pink and purple padded nylon parkas, leg warmers worn over jeans and knit skirts and dresses.

Instead of Lacoste's traditional happy, bright tones, the colors for fall are darker and deeper, such as olive green, deep red and mustard yellow, giving the collection more of a modern edge than Lacoste's traditional preppy look.

You'll be able to check out at least some of the new fall looks at Lacoste sections of most area department stores and the company's boutique at Crabtree Valley Mall in Raleigh.

Diane von Furstenberg

Diane von Furstenberg also was looking to the past for inspiration with her "Foreign Affair" collection that straddled the dark war days of Berlin, the Art Deco era in New York and a war-era Shanghai.

Although it sounds like the makings of scattered collection, Von Furstenberg was at her most inspired, and there were only a few signature wrap dress to lead the way. Instead, there were a few beaded flapper dresses, a jersey "dance" dress, several sultry charmeuse slip dresses and a variety of flowing, floral chiffon gowns and dresses.

But unlike seasons past, von Furstenberg this time went to great lengths to cover up the dresses. She topped most every one with a tweed blazer, a jacquard coat, a long merino wool vest, a cashmere cardigan or a flannel waistcoat. It was a disappointment for some since most people come to the show looking for her iconic dresses.

Still, there was plenty to dazzle on the DVF runway, including a fuchsia faille wrap dress that can easily go day to night, and a teal charmeuse slip dress that should only be worn at night.

Diane von Furstenberg is sold at boutiques such as Scout & Molly's and Beanie + Cecil and department stores such as Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue.

Tracy Reese

Reese took risks for some surprising twists on what seems to be becoming her signature modern sophisticated look.

Her collection was a mixture of floral and geometric prints, bright colors such as a grass green and sky blue, and skirts and dresses draped with heavy coats, jackets and sweaters.

Some of it scored, including an oversized baby blue roses fabric that Reese used on a frock, a shift dress, a blouse and a skirt and a Rhododendron rose fabric with swirls of red, pink and orange used for a draped shift and a frock.

But other pairings were more of a complicated stretch. She put a bright sequined floral top with a muted paisley print skirt and on another look, she paired a striped turtleneck with an animal print skirt, topped them with a paisley printed coat.

Tracy Reese is sold at area boutiques such as Beanie + Cecil.

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