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Night life gets brighter

- N&O Restaurant Critic and Food Writer

Published: Wed, Apr. 05, 2006 09:55AM

Modified Fri, Apr. 07, 2006 09:57AM

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Kevin and Stacey Jennings, who have done more to brighten up Hillsborough Street nightlife than anyone since the '83 Wolfpack basketball team, are at it again. But this time, the husband and wife team who gave us Frazier's and Porter's City Tavern have turned their attention to North Raleigh.

Vivace, which opened late last month in The Alexan at North Hills, certainly lives up to the couples' reputation for stylish decor. A glowing double-sided marble bar is a dramatic focal point, serving both the umbrella-shaded patio and the rustic-chic dining room designed by the James Beard Award-winning design firm, The Johnson Studio.

The decor's palette of olive greens, creams and mochas recalls the Italian countryside, setting the stage for chef Jeremy Sabo's seasonally focused trattoria menu. Sabo's offering is ambitious in scope, with options ranging from pancetta-wrapped monkfish to Florentine-style Porterhouse to wood-fired Neapolitan style-pizzas to house-made pastas such as ricotta tortelloni with bacon and fava beans. The chef, who helped build the reputations of both Frazier's and Porter's, should be up to the task.

Vivace is open for lunch and dinner daily, with an "intermezzo" menu offered between meals. Beginning April 8, the restaurant will add Saturday and Sunday brunch service.

Meanwhile inside the Beltline, the recent opening of Crazy Vine has turned up the wattage on already-dazzling Glenwood South.

As the name suggests, Crazy Vine is a wine bar with a young, trendy vibe. Some 60 wines, including a substantial number of boutique labels, are currently available by the glass. Within a few weeks, that number should grow to more than 100.

To go with those wines, chef Khaleel Faheemud-Deen has developed an extensive tapas menu with a Mediterranean focus. (By my count, this makes five tapas bars on Glenwood South; maybe we should consider renaming the district Tapas Trail.)

Suggested wine pairings for each dish (Serrano ham rolls, black bean hummus and "Mediterranean BBQ" beef tenderloin, to name three) are a welcome touch. So is the wine shop in the front, where you can buy bottles of any wine you take a liking to (at retail prices) to take home.

I'm guessing that the "Crazy" in the wine bar's name refers to its ambience, particularly the lighting whose color gradually morphs through the hues of the rainbow. Talk about a vibrant night scene.

Greg's Hot List: Seafood savor

It wasn't that long ago that going out for seafood in the Triangle meant one thing, and one thing only: Southern fried, with hushpuppies and plenty of sweet iced tea.

No longer. Thanks to the varied and bountiful catch of seafood restaurants the Triangle has landed in recent years, we can indulge a case of the maritime munchies with anything from to wood-grilled scallops to pan-seared triggerfish with a macadamia crust. Set your course for any of these culinary ports of call and see what I mean.

42nd Street Oyster Bar, 508 West Jones St., Raleigh -- The hook: bustling downtown Raleigh landmark with a Deco flair. The catch: simple dishes -- oyster stew, steamed shrimp, oysters on the half shell -- are best.

Blue Fin's Bistro,3652 Rogers Road, in Heritage Station shopping center, Wake Forest -- The hook: vibrant contemporary bistro with a small-town friendly vibe. The catch: crab and artichoke dip, oysters (steamed or raw), steamed shrimp, bacon-wrapped scallops.

Bonefish Grill, The Arboretum at Weston, 2060 Renaissance Park Place, Cary -- The hook: vibrant, upscale contemporary atmosphere and a kid-friendly attitude. The catch: Bang Bang shrimp, crab cakes, grilled fresh fish.

Fins, 7713-39 Lead Mine Road, Greystone Village, Raleigh -- The hook: Pacific rim fusion in an upscale contemporary setting. The catch: everything (but don't miss the Seafood Indulgence appetizer).

Flying Fish, 111 N. Churton St., Hillsborough -- The hook: casual small town atmosphere with a whimsical nautical motif. The catch: fresh seafood with a Southwestern accent.

Gino Russo's Oyster Bar & Restaurant, Pleasant Valley Promenade, 6204 Glenwood Ave., Raleigh -- The hook: seafood with an Italian accent. The catch: oysters Rockefeller, she crab soup, crab cakes.

Kemp's Seafood House, 115 Page Point Circle, Durham -- The hook: down-home Southern fish camp atmosphere. The catch: fried seafood combo platter.

Rockfish Seafood Grill, The Streets at Southpoint mall, 8030 Renaissance Parkway, Durham -- The hook: '50s retro eatery, a whimsical escape for the mall-adjusted. The catch: ahi tuna salad, cedar planked salmon, fish tacos, tortilla-crusted tilapia.

Tony's Bourbon St. Oyster Bar, 107-129 Edinburgh South Drive, in MacGregor Village, Cary. The hook: a taste of New Orleans in Cary. The catch: steamed and raw oysters, crab cakes, po' boy, Creole gumbo.

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