Name is not the same

For three years, Cosmopolitan Grill was Cary's best -- darned near its only -- fine dining restaurant.

The restaurant has closed, and owner John Toler plans to concentrate his efforts on Bloomsbury Bistro, his flagship restaurant in Raleigh. A new restaurant called Bistro 64 has already opened in the MacGregor Village space vacated by Cosmo Grill, as it had come to be called.

But that's just the outline of the story. The devil is in the details, as they say, and in this case the details reveal that much of Cosmopolitan Grill lives on. Atlanta transplants Will and Emily Massey had become such fans of the Cary restaurant that they formed Massey's Restaurant Group and made Toler an offer he couldn't refuse. The couple changed the restaurant's name to Bistro 64, and they gave the decor a makeover, including building a wine wall at the back of the dining room.

But the new owners' experience in the restaurant business (Will Massey had been the youngest general manager ever to work for the Morton's Steakhouse chain) had taught them not to throw the baby out with the bathwater. They retained the kitchen and dining room staffs, both among the best around.

That would include executive chef Randy Wilder, whose resume includes a Johnson & Wales diploma and a total of six years working with Toler at Bloomsbury Bistro and Cosmopolitan Grill. Toler's influence is evident throughout the menu, in dishes such as bamboo-steamed Maine lobster dumpling in vanilla bean-laced Thai green curry broth, and braised Colorado lamb shank over roasted red pepper polenta. Wilder's Southern roots shine through, too, in a number of creations, among them roasted Texas Sweet onion bisque, and iron skillet-bronzed pork tenderloin over red beans and rice with collard greens and a spicy crayfish-andouille sausage gumbo. The Bistro 64 steak plate, featuring a choice of New York strip or petite filet with a ragout of baby portobellos and applewood-smoked bacon on a pile of whipped Yukon gold potatoes, is evidence of Massey's steakhouse background.

Come to think of it, you might even say that Bistro 64 is three restaurants in one.

Tidbits

Azure Grille celebrated its grand opening last week in the old O'Neil's Neighborhood Grill spot in Chapel Hill's Meadowmont Village. Actually, owners Ed and Deborah Roach opened the restaurant several weeks ago, featuring an ambitious California-French menu by chef Matt Romatzick (as I reported in more detail in February). They kept the O'Neil's name, though, until the new name cleared legal research.

Also in Chapel Hill, Carolina Inn has resumed Fridays on the Front Porch, its end-of-the-week celebration featuring live bluegrass music, appetizers and full bar service on the patio. Catch it on Fridays from 5 to 7 p.m.

Doce long a popular lunch spot in Durham, is now open for breakfast Monday through Friday beginning at 8 a.m. The restaurant has also hired Frank Ferlo Jr. as catering manager and is expanding its catering services.

Here's a toast to Chapel Hill's Carolina Brewery, which won four awards at the recent Carolina Championship of Beer competition. The brewpub's Funky Monkey Ale, a Belgian Trappist-style brew, garnered a Gold Award. Copperline Amber Ale won a Silver, and two beers -- Alter Ego Altbier and India Pale Ale -- brought home Bronze.

Greg's Hot List: Brunch for Mom

You did remember that this Sunday is Mother's Day, didn't you? Cards and flowers are fine, but for my money the best way to show Mom how much you love her is with a meal she doesn't have to cook or clean up after.

Mother's Day being one of the busiest days of the year for restaurants, you shouldn't have any trouble finding lots of choices. One caveat, though: area universities often schedule graduation weekend to coincide with Mother's Day, so many of the best restaurants fill up fast. It's a good idea to get reservations if possible.

Acme Food & Beverage Co., 110 E. Main St., Carrboro, 929-2263.

Big Ed's, 220 Wolfe St., in City Market, Raleigh, 836-9909.

Blue Ridge, The North Carolina Museum of Art, 2110 Blue Ridge Rd., Raleigh, 664-6838.

Carolina Crossroads, The Carolina Inn, 211 Pittsboro St., Chapel Hill, 933-2001.

Carvers Creek, 2711 Capital Blvd., Raleigh, 872-2300.

Fairview, The Washington Duke Inn, 3001 Cameron Boulevard, Durham, 490-0999.

Il Palio, The Siena Hotel, 1505 East Franklin Street, Chapel Hill, 918-2545.

Irregardless Cafe, 901 West Morgan Street, Raleigh, 833-8898 (recording of daily menu, 833-9920).

Lofton's, 3415 Wake Forest Rd., in the North Raleigh Hilton, Raleigh, 872-2323.

Lucky 32, 832 Spring Forest Rd., Raleigh; 7307 Tryon Rd., Cary, 876-9932 (Raleigh); 233-1632 (Cary).

Margaux's, Brennan Station, 8111 Creedmoor Rd., Raleigh, 846-9846.

Vinnie's, 7440 Six Forks Rd., Raleigh, 847-7319.

Zest Cafe & Home Art, 8831 Six Forks Road, Six Forks Station, Raleigh, 848-4792.