News & Observer | newsobserver.com | Restaurant Reviews

Steakhouse makes choices simple

No doubt about it, these are exciting times to be a foodie in the Triangle. As our dining options continue to get more varied and sophisticated, living here is an exhilarating ride on an ever-lengthening gourmet gravy train.

Updated: May. 16, 2008 5:44 AM | Full story

Opulence marks the Mint

A gleaming, six-ton steel bank vault door built into the entryway is the first clue. Then follow strings of faceted crystals, suggestive of diamond necklaces, suspended from the dining room's soaring two-story ceiling; yards of polished stone and custom fabrics, including the sumptuous silken upholstery of deep banquettes; dramatic modern sculptures backlit in the copper and green of money.

Updated: May. 9, 2008 6:19 AM | Full story

Ichiban mixes and misses a bit

You won't find a teppanyaki table at Ichiban Sushi & Steak, though you might be able to get a peek at the chef as he stir-fries your hibachi steak.

Updated: May. 2, 2008 6:43 AM | Full story

Crawdaddy's hits a few off notes

A pair of stuffed alligators prowl the tin roof over the bar at Crawdaddy's, their backs lit by the glow of neon beer signs.

Updated: Apr. 25, 2008 6:35 AM | Full story

Poole's, a diner with no compromises

Among the items on the chalkboard menu at Poole's Downtown Diner the night it opened in December were calf's liver with rosemary pan gravy, Russian tea-brined pork belly, venison meatloaf, and duck hearts with sherry and bacon.

Updated: Apr. 18, 2008 1:49 AM | Full story

China Palace creates royal experience

I've just discovered one of the best Chinese restaurants in the Triangle, and I'm kicking myself.

Updated: Apr. 11, 2008 1:41 AM | Full story

Globe takes diners on culinary journeys

Step inside Globe and your eyes are instantly drawn upward to panels suspended from the ceiling, their shapes and silvery glow evocative of low clouds.

Updated: Apr. 4, 2008 6:43 AM | Full story

Go west at Sedona

In Sedona's main dining room, on a wall as intensely blue as the desert sky at noon, hang three pictures that loosely resemble American Indian cave paintings.

Updated: Mar. 28, 2008 6:30 AM | Full story

Beyond Tex-Mex -- way beyond

I've got a weakness for chiles poblanos. It could be worse, I suppose. I could have an inordinate fondness for cheap tequila.

Updated: Mar. 21, 2008 6:53 AM | Full story

Sophistication comes with Fairview's fine food

Dining review:I seldom take advantage of valet parking, but I do when I dine at Fairview. Somehow, driving up the long approach to the Washington Duke Inn transforms me into a sophisticated man about town.

Updated: Mar. 14, 2008 6:00 AM | Full story

Sushi chef is a hero

I wasn't feeling particularly open-minded the first time I pulled up in front of Hayashi, which opened last March in a drab strip mall anchored by a Food Lion on the outskirts of North Raleigh.

Updated: Mar. 7, 2008 6:48 AM | Full story

Kandas offers India's variety

I like to think of myself as an open-minded foodie, able to take any cuisine on its own terms.

Updated: Feb. 29, 2008 7:00 AM | Full story

Relax at Caribbean Café

Caribbean Café has been open for nearly a year, but it's a modest little eatery in one of those countless nondescript three-tenant strip malls in North Raleigh, so it's easy to overlook.

Updated: Feb. 22, 2008 1:50 AM | Full story

Service excels at Bocci

The first time I dined at Bocci, the waiter was exceptional in every respect: attentive without being intrusive, welcoming without being overbearing, knowledgeable about the menu and wine list.

Updated: Feb. 15, 2008 6:36 AM | Full story

Skylines builds up Clayton's choices

Four large glass panels separate the dining room from the cozy bar at Skylines Cafe.

Updated: Feb. 8, 2008 7:07 AM | Full story

Pitmaster goes upscale

Ed Mitchell is acknowledged as a premier practitioner of the ancient (some say dying) art of Eastern North Carolina-style barbecue.

Updated: Feb. 1, 2008 7:15 AM | Full story

Catering to excellence

Amy Tornquist studied cooking at the internationally renowned La Varenne École de Cuisine in Paris.

Updated: Jan. 25, 2008 7:33 AM | Full story

North Seafood Bistro takes western course

I couldn't say why I ordered the coconut shrimp. Sure, the appetizer is representative of the offering at North Seafood Bistro, a tiny new neighborhood restaurant and bar in North Raleigh specializing in seafood with a California accent.

Updated: Jan. 18, 2008 7:17 AM | Full story

Old World meets New

In Italy, an osteria is a modest establishment specializing in good, inexpensive wines and simple, well-prepared food -- that country's answer to the French bistro, you might say.

Updated: Jan. 11, 2008 1:48 AM | Full story

The Triangle's best restaurants

Now that turkeys by the million have given their all for the holiday season, it's once again time for critics of all stripes to stick our necks out on the chopping block of public opinion.

Updated: Jan. 10, 2008 8:55 AM | Full story

A bumpy ride in Carrboro

The train cars parked on the tracks next to Carr Mill Mall in Carrboro haven't left the station in years. But they've been carrying people to all kinds of destinations since September.

Updated: Jan. 4, 2008 7:09 AM | Full story

Queued up for chips in Cary

When London Fish & Chips opened in April, eager customers were lined up four deep out onto the sidewalk of the Cary strip mall where the restaurant is located.

Updated: Dec. 28, 2007 6:19 AM | Full story

Dos Taquitos Centro explores new territory

Instead of chips and salsa, Dos Taquitos Centro welcomes customers with a little -- hmm, what's the Spanish term for amuse-bouche?

Updated: Dec. 21, 2007 6:03 AM | Full story

Junior's stays true to family tradition

Just inside Junior's Long Island Pizza awaits a larger-than-life mural portrait of the restaurant's namesake, "Junior" Castellaneta, who bears a welcoming smile and a pizza topped with tomatoes as big as your hand.

Updated: Dec. 14, 2007 1:44 AM | Full story

Tamarind offers pleasing adventure

Order the assorted meats appetizer platter at Tamarind, a deceptively unassuming Indian restaurant which opened in June in Apex, and one of the specialties you'll get is a tandoori chicken dish called murg manpasand.

Updated: Dec. 7, 2007 7:07 AM | Full story
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