For 10 years, I've limited my picks to restaurants I've reviewed in the previous year. That approach was severely limiting. Year after year -- unavoidably, in such a rapidly growing region -- the list was heavily skewed in favor of new restaurants at the expense of worthy establishments that had withstood the test of time.

And year after year, the list was misused by restaurateurs who took out ads proclaiming that I'd named their restaurant one of the "Top Ten in the Triangle." I hadn't, as I took pains to explain each year. If I had published such a list, and I'd included all the restaurants I'd ever reviewed, then some of those newcomers wouldn't have made my "Top Fifty in the Triangle" list.

So I'm trying a new approach. Any restaurant I've ever reviewed, and have visited recently enough to feel comfortable with my evaluation, is open for consideration.

I've made my selections according to six categories, and I've made a point of recognizing the truly stellar new restaurants while giving old-timers a fair shake.

Maybe this year I won't see any ads for restaurants claiming that I've selected them as one of the "Top Ten in the Triangle."

Note: Some categories are represented by multiple winners. I consider these to be a tie and have listed them alphabetically.

Best new restaurant

Saint Jacques

6112 Falls of the Neuse Road, in North Ridge shopping center, Raleigh; 862-2770, www.saintjacquesfrenchcuisine.com.

Starlu, 3211 Shannon Road, Suite 106, Durham; 489-1500, www.starlu.com.

The Wild Orchid Grill, 7901-101 Falls of the Neuse Road, Raleigh; 844-7787, www.thewildorchidgrill.com.

Most years, I'd be hard-pressed to name a single new restaurant worthy of inclusion in the elite circle of the Triangle's very best. This year, we were blessed with three that meet the standard across the board, delivering consistently superb food in a celebration-worthy setting with -- most impressive of all for a new restaurant -- polished service.

Although Starlu and Wild Orchid Grill both feature contemporary American cuisine, the two restaurants are as different as their chef/owners. At Starlu, the dining room's clean, contemporary lines are evocative of a California bistro. So is chef Sam Poley's monthly changing menu, which includes the likes of sweet pea and tarragon ravioli, North Carolina grouper steamed on a bed of fresh marjoram and grilled rib-eye with foie gras butter.

At Wild Orchid, soft lighting, white tablecloths and dramatic paintings of orchids on butter-colored walls set a more intimate stage. Chef David Lopuszynski keeps the romantic mood alive, seducing the palate with the likes of pan-seared foie gras, macadamia-crusted Chilean sea bass, Dijon- and herb-crusted rack of lamb, and flawless creme brulee.

In a world where glitzy decor and trend-du-jour cuisine are the rule, Saint Jacques' unpretentious Provencal inn setting and traditional French bill of fare are a welcome exception. The seasonally evolving menu sticks pretty close to the classic repertoire, with options including coq au vin, tournedos Rossini, lamb medallions over a white bean ragout and a stellar rendition of the restaurant's namesake dish featuring pan-seared diver scallops. Desserts such as tarte Tatin and poire Belle Helene are well worth the calories, too.

Most improved

Vin Rouge, 2010 Hillsborough Road, Durham, 416-0406, www.vinrougerestaurant.com.

After a promising opening in 2002, Vin Rouge began to lose direction. Then, in December of 2003, owner Giorgios Bakatsias hired talented young chef Matthew Kelly to return the menu to its French bistro roots. Kelly responded with stellar renderings of the repertoire, from classically fluffy omelets to steak frites. Plats du jour such as Tuesday's flat iron steak and Thursday's sweetbreads are worth marking on your calendar. Vin Rouge is better than ever.

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