What's in a name?

January 7, 2004 

What's in a name, if your name is a color? Red hot jazz, a sultry decor and the French-inflected cuisine of chef Alain Wellerstein, if you're the Red Room at the Gateway Cafe in Morrisville. Wellerstein, formerly chef-proprietor at Tartines Bistro in Raleigh, is now serving dinner by reservation only on Friday and Saturday nights.

The menu includes dishes such as duck breast with blackberry demi-glace, beef tenderloin with cognac peppercorn sauce and monkfish with fennel saffron compote. Dessert? Cherry almond clafoutis, of course, if you want to match the setting.

What's in a name, if your name is a number? Bo Yu has bought the Cary location of 35, known locally for its expansive buffet. Yu is keeping the restaurant's name, but has added a menu with a name of its own: Guxiang Yuan, which means Homeland Garden.

It's the first exclusively authentic Szechwan menu in the Triangle, offering fare such as spicy dan dan noodles, tea-smoked duck and kung pao chicken -- the real kung pao chicken, that is, not the Americanized version. You'll find these dishes and dozens more at the Cary location of the restaurant on Kildaire Farm Road.

What's in a name, if your name is almost unpronounceable? Enough to make an appearance on Food TV, if your name is Guglhupf (pronounced "GOO-guhl-hopf"). The Durham bakery's European breads and pastries were recently featured on that network's Food Finds program. Here's a rousing "prost!" to Guglhupf.

What's in a name, if you're a national chain? Replication, of course. The Bamboo Club, a Phoenix-based chain specializing in Pacific Rim cuisine, has opened a new location in North Raleigh's Triangle Town Center. Meanwhile in Cary, Ruth's Chris Steak House isn't adding a new location in the area -- yet, but it's moving. The restaurant will close its current location on Buck Jones Road in March and reopen at the Arboretum on North Harrison Avenue in April.

Got a tip for Greg? Contact him ggcox@bellsouth.net.

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