Mamma Mia!

October 1, 2004 

708 Laura Duncan Road, Apex.


Cuisine: Italian.

Rating: ** 1/2

Prices: entrees average $11 to $16.

Atmosphere: generic suburban strip mall Italian.

Service: eager to please.

Recommended: calamari, pasta e fagioli, spaghetti and meatballs, gnocchi alla napoletana, pork shank "osso buco."

Open: lunch Monday-Friday, dinner nightly.

Reservations: accepted only for large parties.

Other: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover, Diners Club; beer and wine; smoke-free; kid-friendly.

The N&O's critic dines anonymously; the newspaper pays for all meals. We rank restaurants in five categories:

**** Extraordinary.

*** Excellent.

** Good.

* Fair.

Zero stars: Poor.

See Greg Cox's weekly

e-picurean column and check out the searchable restaurant database at

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