No doubt about it, when it comes to steakhouses in the Triangle, the trend is up. And so is the level of competition, as a stampede of newcomers seek to distinguish themselves with ever-more-luxurious enticements. U.S.D.A. Prime beef, once a rarity, now seems a required entry on the menu of new steakhouses. When it comes to decor, the more contemporary and polished, the better. Cowboy-rustic no longer cuts the mustard.
Even Japanese steakhouses are getting in on the act. Mura, the chic new teppanyaki temple in North Hills, offers Kobe beef filet mignon at $8.25 an ounce. For non-math majors like me, that's 50 bucks for a modest 6-ounce portion.
It was only a matter of time before a Brazilian steakhouse jumped on the deluxe bandwagon. The honor of being first goes to Brasa, which opened last week in Brier Creek Commons. The restaurant is owned by the same folks who gave us Rio Churrascaria, which currently boasts two locations in North Raleigh and Cary. But Brava ups the ante on several fronts.
For starters, the appetizer/salad bar is even more impressive than the spread at Rio's, which is itself lavish by most standards. The main course selection has also been, um, beefed up, with optional lobster tails joining a list of more than a dozen beef, pork and chicken cuts which are carved from skewers at your table. (Whatever you choose, don't miss the classic Brazilian beef cut called picanha.)
According to manager Eduardo Souza, Brasa's atmosphere and service will be noticeably more polished than in other area Brazilian steakhouse. There's that word "polished" again.
Musical chefs
Carolina Brewery has hired a new chef. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, Andrew Forster is serving up nightly specials that are decidedly more ambitious than the regular menu's pub fare -- hand-cut rib-eye steak with garlic-rosemary potatoes and steamed Brussels sprouts with bacon, to name one recent example. Looks like the Chapel Hill brewpub is aiming to bring its food up to the level of its award-winning brews.
Meanwhile in Durham, chef Andy Magowan has left Federal to open his first restaurant. He hopes to have Piedmont up and running at 401 Foster St. by early June and aims to take full advantage of its location next to the Durham Farmers Market. Look for an emphasis on local produce in a menu which Magowan describes as "Italian and French country food." Fans of the chef's house-cured hams and salami needn't worry, as he will continue the practice at his new restaurant. Federal regulars can rest easy, too. The kitchen is now in the capable hands of Brian Avery, who was promoted from sous chef.
Greg's Hot List: Prime steakhouse options
Has all that talk about steaks got your mouth watering? Here's a list of top area steakhouses, a mix of new and old, where you can get your beefeater fix.
Angus Barn, 9401 Glenwood Ave., Raleigh.
B. Christopher's, 100 Meadowmont Village Circle, in Meadowmont Village, Chapel Hill.
Bin 54, 1201 Raleigh Road, in Glen Lennox shopping center, Chapel Hill.
Capital City Chop House, 151 Airgate Drive, Morrisville.
Chops, 10920 Cleveland School Rd., Garner.
Jimmy V's, 107 Edinburgh South, MacGregor Village, Cary.
JK's, 4381 Lassiter at North Hills Ave., North Hills, Raleigh.
Prime Only, 9800-104 Leesville Road, Raleigh.
Ruth's Chris Steak House, 2010 Renaissance Place, Cary.
Simpson's, 5625 Creedmoor Road, Creedmoor Crossings, Raleigh.
Sullivan's Steakhouse, The Creamery Building, 414 Glenwood Ave., Raleigh.
Vinnie's, 7440 Six Forks Road, Raleigh.
