The warm light of an early summer evening filters through gauzy curtains in the windows at Unaabi Grill, amping up the vibrant colors of exotic folk costumes and tapestries on the walls. Precisely aimed spotlights reinforce the ambient light, reflecting off the burnished brass and copper of rustic cooking vessels on display shelves. If it weren't for the distinctive trapezoidal shapes of the windows and the familiar brick of the walls, it would be easy to forget that the restaurant you're sitting in was formerly a Pizza Hut.
In fact, Unaabi Grill is about as far from a Pizza Hut as it gets. The cuisine is Afghan, for one thing, which is hardly mainstream American fare (though the kebabs in particular will be familiar to many). The restaurant is not a chain, though owner Zahed Khan hopes one day to franchise the operation. Khan, a fruit and vegetable distributor in his other life, proudly notes that meats are halal and vegetables are organic when possible. To transform these raw ingredients into a menu, he lured chef Tahir Yasin from New York, where the Afghan native operated the Afghan Kebab House on Times Square for more than two decades.
Yasin's experience reveals itself in a broad assortment of expertly grilled kebabs. In addition to the familiar beef, lamb and kofta kebabs, flame-grilled options include lamb chops, ginger- and garlic-marinated shrimp, and spicy fish kebabs. The chicken category alone runs to seven listings, from boneless breast to wings to half a bird. A number of options, among them lamb tikka, chicken korma and tandoori fish masala kebab, reflect Afghanistan's history as a cultural crossroads.
I'm partial to the lamb chops, but (with the exception of kofta kebabs, which were dry when I tried them) every skewered morsel I sampled was tasty. Reasonably moist, too, though a caveat is in order: If you prefer your meat cooked rare or medium-rare, be sure to let your preference be known. Otherwise it will be cooked to the medium that, in my experience, is the standard for Middle Eastern kebabs.
If you find yourself having a hard time choosing among all the fire-grilled options, you might consider the Sultani kebab combo, which serves up lamb (chops and tikka), beef kofta, chicken breast and delicately spiced nuggets of cod on a large platter garnished with grilled tomatoes, onions and peppers. Like all the kebab platters, it's accompanied by a small salad and cumin-fragrant basmati rice. Throw in the thick, rustic Afghan flatbread that's served at the beginning of the meal with a trio of dipping sauces (sweet red pepper, tart cilantro and a creamy blend of mayo, herbs and spices), and you've got dinner for two at a bargain $22.99.
For another 10 bucks, you can transform that meal into a veritable feast. Just order the combo appetizer, which features a sampling of bolanee, blistery-crusted Afghan turnovers with a variety of filling options ranging from eggplant to (my favorite) pumpkin.
Notwithstanding the restaurant's name and the chef's touted specialty, Unaabi Grill is by no means just a kebab joint. A number of worthy entree alternatives are available, among them curried beef meatballs and chicken Naringe, an exotically perfumed medley of moist chicken, rice, orange zest, pistachios and pine nuts. Kabuli palau is a toothsome twist on the pilaf theme, starring succulent chunks of lamb (or beef) buried under a mountain of brown basmati rice, raisins, almonds and fine julienne carrots. Aushak, a traditional Afghan dish featuring delicate scallion-filled dumplings topped with ground beef and minted yogurt sauce, is available as an appetizer or entree.
Vegetarians will find a varied offering, from a simple stew of okra and tomatoes to palau Baudinjan, an intricately spiced medley of eggplant, onions, tomatoes and green peppers. Even if you're not a vegetarian, one of these dishes makes a rewarding side dish.
It's fitting, really, that Unaabi Grill has made its home in a former Pizza Hut in Cary, a town that has been eagerly shedding its reputation for bland white bread fare and spicing things up with an increasingly colorful assortment of ethnic dining options. Unaabi Grill's vibrant offering is a welcome addition to the mix.
