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Published Wed, Jan 27, 2010 02:00 AM
Modified Wed, Jan 27, 2010 11:18 AM

Mexican dining options expand

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- CORRESPONDENT
Tags: epicurean | food_cooking | lifestyle

Bravo's Mexican Grill (208 Grande Heights Drive, Cary; 481-3811), which opened on New Year's Day in Harrison Pointe shopping center, is the first venture north of the border for the father and son team of Jesus and Fernando Bravo. The North Carolina border, that is. The Bravos already own two successful Mexican restaurants in South Carolina.

Their new restaurant's extensive menu raises the ante considerably above the typical Tex-Mex offering and includes a number of surprises such as pollo relleno (grilled chicken breast stuffed with ham, spinach and cheese, and topped with "our creamy broccoli gravy"), lime tilapia, pork fajitas (one of nine variations on the theme) and an unlikely culinary fusion of Philadelphia and Mexico City called Bravo's cheese steak. Those seeking more familiar fare will find it in abundance, from enchiladas to tacos (soft or hard) to lunchtime Tex-Mex combo plates. The fish tacos are getting early rave reviews.

The father and son team has given the former East Coast Wings spot a thorough makeover, transforming it from a takeout joint to a full service restaurant. It's a small space but an inviting one, with a full bar (check out the old Western movie stills and head shots under the lacquered bar top) and colorful, cheery vibe.

If the tone is cheery at Bravo's, it's positively giddy at Los Portales (6905-104 Fayetteville Road; 544-9247) in Durham. Located in the former Bakehouse Bistro space near Southpoint mall, the new restaurant's decor is a circus of vibrant colors, from the parrots and tropical fruits carved into the chair backs to the neon beer signs on the wall near the thatch-roofed "hut" that is the bar.

Los Portales is not affiliated with other area restaurants that have gone by the same name, but it is brought to you by the same partners who own the Los Tres Magueyes restaurants in Wake County. People familiar with that chain will recognize much of the Los Portales menu, which includes the usual Tex-Mex offering, from combo plates to "Especialidades de la Casa" such as huevos rancheros and carnitas en salsa verde. Choripollo is the best-seller, according to managing partner Adrian Carmona, though quesadillas and burritos also have a strong following.

It's a good bet, too, that the chicken tenders are popular among the younger set - especially on Mondays, when kids eat free from the children's menu. Meanwhile, Mom and Dad can treat themselves to the Monday night bar special: imported beers, $1.99.

Greg Cox is the restaurant critic and food writer for The News & Observer. He can be reached at ggcox@bellsouth.net. Read more about the Triangle dining scene at blogs.newsobserver.com/mouthful.

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