Call it a bold marketing move or a sign of the times.
Either way, the overnight transformation of the fine-dining restaurant Fins into the more casual Bu.ku (110 E. Davie St.; 834-6963; http://bukuraleigh .com ) brings another trendy, recession-friendly dining option to downtown Raleigh.
The specialty at Bu.ku, whose name is inspired by the international slang twist on "merci beaucoup," is owner/chef William D'Auvray's global street food. The bulk of the offering is shareable small plates, grouped not by country of origin but culinary kinship. Under the heading of "dumplings, savory pastries, rolls," for instance, you'll find everything from empanadas to pierogis to Chinese barbecue pork buns; and "hot pots, soups, fragrant broths" covers the spectrum from coconut curry to clam chowder. Most are in the $4 to $7 range.
Prices a bit higher for entrees, but they're still eminently reasonable for an offering that includes black truffle roasted chicken ($17), Kurobuta pork crown rack with trumpet royale mushrooms ($18) and plantain-crusted Chilean sea bass with green mango salad ($24). The chef's many longtime fans will be happy to know that his signature Indonesian style line-caught red snapper has made the cut, along with a few other dishes dating back to the original Fins in North Raleigh.
With barely a month between the closing of Fins and the opening of Bu.ku, D'Auvray has made only minimal changes to the dining room decor. The mood is decidedly more relaxed, though, and once the live entertainment (a nightly changing schedule of world music ranging from Latin to African drums) kicks in, it should be downright chill. Bu.ku is open nightly for dinner, with a late-night menu available until midnight on weeknights, 2 a.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. Once things are running smoothly (possibly as early as this weekend), lunch will also be served.
Meanwhile on Hillsborough Street, another fine-dining destination is undergoing a similar transformation. Frazier's served its last meal on Valentine's Day, a casualty of the economic times and street construction. Owners Kevin and Stacey Jennings are redesigning the space as a wine bar/small plates restaurant, which they expect to be open for the summer unveiling of the redesigned Hillsborough Street. I'll have more details as they take shape.
