Is it any wonder that North Carolina was named the 10th-fattest state in the nation the day before two North Carolina food institutions unveiled their collaboration: a Cheerwine-flavored, cream-filled Krispy Kreme doughnut?
For fans of the punchy, cherry-flavored soda and those glazed doughnuts, the creation offers the promise of sugary bliss. But the union doesn't work for one reason: Krispy Kremes aren't great filled doughnuts.
The beauty of a Krispy Kreme is that "Hot Doughnuts Now" experience. The neon sign declaring warm doughnuts coming off the conveyor belt lures you in for a quick sugar rush. The hot, airy doughnuts melt in your mouth. Follow them with gulps of milk from a plastic jug, and you can eat one after the other.
Filled doughnuts don't offer that warm experience.
This version is so sweet with the soda-flavored cream, chocolate icing and sprinkles, it sinks in your stomach. It leaves a sugar carpet on your tongue that gallons of water can't erase.
Here's my suggestion instead: Chase a warm original glazed with an ice-cold Cheerwine.
Andrea Weigl is The News & Observer's food writer.