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Published Fri, Sep 03, 2010 06:17 AM
Modified Fri, Sep 03, 2010 10:18 AM

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- CORRESPONDENT

When Sarah Bonner opened West 94th Street Pub in 1994, she was inspired by the theme song of the popular TV sitcom "Cheers." Now it's clear that she was successful in creating the sort of place where everybody knows your name. Well, not your name, strictly speaking, unless you're one of the regulars who make up the majority of the pub's clientele. But you get the feeling that it wouldn't take too many visits before you'd become one of those regulars.

In the meantime, getting to know the place is every bit as entertaining as a sitcom. The atmosphere is decidedly old school, from the mirrored bar back to the vintage sports memorabilia lining one wall of the narrow, dimly lit backroom to the two middle-age gentlemen sitting on the stools next to me when I stopped in for a bite and a pint recently.

About 15 minutes after these gents - let's call them Cliff and Norm - finished playing poker, Norm got a cell phone call from his wife, who was obviously wanting to know when he'd be home. His answer, without missing a beat: "Just as soon as I finish this game." Then he ordered another beer.

Meanwhile, Corey the bartender (inside of five minutes, I'd already heard a couple of customers call him by name) appeared to know not just everybody's name but also what they were drinking. And I don't mean just the obvious regulars at the bar. At one point, a young woman came in from the patio (apparently a popular after-hours hangout for young professionals) to order another round but forgot what her friend had been drinking. Corey hadn't.

The food is traditional pub fare, though the specials board does feature the occasional surprise. Fish and chips and burgers are best sellers. So are desserts, generously portioned gooey-licious treats such as caramel Butterfingers crunch and peanut butter pie, which Bonner still makes herself.

I'm still trying to decide what to make of the chilled avocado tomato soup I ordered from the specials board, a bracingly tart concoction that was near as thick as guacamole. But I was able to confirm that the fish and chips (the chips are house-fried American-style potato chips) are deserving of their popularity.

West 94th Street Pub celebrated its 16th anniversary last weekend. I can't think of a more fitting toast to its continued success than "Cheers!"

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West 94th Street Pub

4711 Hope Valley Road, in Woodcroft Shopping Center, Durham

403-0025

www.west94stpub.com

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