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Published Sat, May 21, 2011 02:00 AM
Modified Fri, May 20, 2011 11:59 PM

Looks like sticks, tastes like lemon

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Tags: home & garden | lifestyle | tasteful garden

Carol Stein grows it

I was standing in line to order Thai takeout food from a restaurant on Ocracoke Island the first time I noticed lemon grass growing in North Carolina.

The chef said lemon grass is a tender perennial in the Outer Banks (Zone 8b), but she doubted it could survive the winter in Raleigh. (Zone 7b). I wanted to try, because it's a gorgeous, fountain-shaped grass that only reaches about three feet tall. I found starter plants at the Little Herb House, bought two sprigs and tucked them into small spaces in my garden.

During the first summer, the tiny plants quickly outgrew their allotted spaces. I figured they would die after first frost and I'd buy more the following spring.

But the plants came back stronger the second year. I didn't cut back the dead foliage until late spring, giving the plants adequate insulation to weather winter. They had sprouted shoots by the time I cut them back.

I dug them up, divided the sturdy root systems and planted the divisions. Lemon grass is great in spots where other plants struggle with hot temperatures, poor soil and way too much sun. If you don't like the brown foliage during winter, add three to four inches of mulch after cutting the plants back in late fall.

To harvest lemon grass, use a sharp knife to cut a section from the outer perimeter at the roots and pull the shoots. Even if you're not into Thai flavors, grow lemon grass in larger patio pots for its fragrant scent. Surround lemon grass with lower-growing or trailing fragrant herbs to create an exquisite container herb garden.

Debbie Moose cooks it

To me, the flavor of Thai and Vietnamese food is the flavor of lemon grass. It adds a sour-lemon flavor that lemon fruit simply can't match.

A stem of lemon grass looks like an overgrown, rock-hard spring onion. Cut off and discard the green leaves at the top and use only the white root. Yes, it's a root, even if it doesn't look like the usual plant roots. The herb is too tough to eat, but releases its flavor when you crush it.

I've found the best quality lemon grass in Asian markets, not surprisingly. Select stems that are firm and blemish-free. They'll feel like sticks, and you'll wonder what the heck you're doing with this, but don't worry.

Wrap lemon grass tightly in a plastic bag and it will keep in the refrigerator for two weeks. You can also freeze lemon grass. Chop it and seal in labeled plastic bags, pushing out the air.

Don't confine the fascinating flavor of this herb to Asian cooking. Drop a crushed root into chicken soup or curries or try the beverage recipe below.

Reach Carol Stein and Debbie Moose at tastefulgarden@hotmail.com

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