NEW YORK -- What does it mean to be a strong woman? What does strength look like in 2012? And how do you achieve a balance between power and femininity?
The answers to those questions have framed a major theme of the Fall 2012 collections shown since Feb. 9 at the Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week, in the special tents at Lincoln Center and other venues around New York City.
Of course, among the more than 250 events - collections seen on the runway as well as at showroom openings - there were myriad interpretations of what's in for next fall. Fashion, after all, is all about individuality and personal statements. And the New York collections will offer fashion fans plenty of options.
But a prevailing theme appeared again and again as designers celebrated a strong, bold and sleek brand of the feminine ideal.
The bold and beautiful theme resulted in some key pieces seen across the board: leather - the shinier the better; brightly colored furs; powerful coats - especially black duster coats; and pencil skirts. Key color combinations of red and black dominated, along with shades of oxblood red, midnight and turquoise blue, forest green (which turned up repeatedly in brocades and jacquards) and purple.
Designers also played with the balance between masculine and feminine by showing otherwise minimalist looks that offered racy flashes of skin by way of panels and slashes created with mesh, illusion and even plastics.
Even the accessories emphasized this stronger sense of femininity. At Diane von Furstenberg, for example, many of the models were accessorized with opera-length, black leather gloves. And the von Furstenberg collection was one of several that sent models down the runway with what has been a key hair trend - tightly wound, pristine chignons at the nape with a side part.
Here's a closer look at some of the key themes and designers of the season.
Bold power plays
Reem Acra has, in recent years, become known for her jaw-dropping evening wear, and there was plenty of that here. But it was the leather that promised to put fashion fans in a lather: Expertly tailored dresses, jackets and skirts were the epitome of power dressing. Herve Leger's and Tommy Hilfiger's women's collections went for the leather for a tough, urban vibe. But beneath the trappings was a flirtatious side to the edge. The Herve Leger collection, shown with body harnesses that bordered on S&M, tantalized with a newfound gloss on its signature bandage dress, most notably in the pleated skirts and prints. And Hilfiger's women will have fashion fans ready to salute with smart-looking military-esque coats, a quilted suede field jacket and a quilted suede and colored leather skirt.
Clamoring for coats
If you've been waiting to invest in a coat, the wait is over. Designers turned out all manner of smart toppers, from wool to leather to fur. Among the most winning were Tracy Reese's blazing lemon peplum coat and a blazing tomato, shearling-trimmed duffle coat; Tommy Hilfiger's military coats; Betsey Johnson's cheeky black-and-white houndstooth; and a stunning, bottle-green, fox peacoat from Peter Som.
The big tease
Designers are playing peekaboo for fall and giving otherwise minimalist looks a racier edge and a hint of sexy femininity. Top looks with this trend included a Carmen Marc Valvo's crepe, wool and cashmere dresses that included slashes of everything from sueded python and leather to illusion. Rebecca Taylor hit a similarly winning note with pieces like a blue burnout velvet dress.
Bold color and patterns
While solid midnight blue and black were the colors of choice for many designers, some went to the opposite extreme, wowing the runway with bursts of color. Diane von Furstenberg's tres jolie mademoiselles were sleek sophisticates. Nicole Miler sent her fans back to the hippie, trippy '70s. Betsey Johnson bopped her way through the British Invasion from the '60s to the early '70s. And Tracy Reese made her fans happy with plenty of smart clothes bursting with optimistic, eye-catching patterns and almost defiant dashes of color, including a purple lamé cocktail dress that made some in the crowd swoon.
