Celebrate summer's end before it is too late

Published: September 4, 2012

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How to roast tomatoes If you don’t have cherry tomatoes, roast plum tomatoes with this recipe adapted from Fine Cooking Magazine’s “Fine Cooking In Season.” Halve through the stem end and seed 4 1/2 to 5 pounds of plum tomatoes. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line a 12-by-17-inch rimmed baking sheet with foil (then parchment if you have it). Coat pan with 3 tablespoons olive oil. Arrange tomato halves, cut side up, turning to coat bottoms with some oil. Sprinkle sparingly with kosher salt, sugar and scant 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar. Thinly slice 3 to 4 garlic cloves; arrange slices over tomatoes. Sprinkle with fresh thyme. Pour 1 cup olive oil over all. Roast in center of oven until tomatoes are dark reddish brown, with deep browning on edges. Cool. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store in refrigerator up to a week or in a freezer bag up to a month. Judy Hevrdejs, Chicago Tribune

Here are nine quick ideas for zucchini These are suggestions to inspire you. If you are a cook who needs exact measurements, use these ideas as a starting point and look for recipes in your favorite cookbooks or at these websites: epicurious.com and goodhousekeeping.com. 1. Bulgur salad with arugula, zucchini and pine nuts: Salt chopped zucchini and set aside until soft. Rinse, pat dry and combine with toasted soaked bulgur and minced red onion, dress with olive oil and lemon juice and at the last minute add torn arugula leaves and toasted pine nuts. 2. Ratatouille: Saute onions in olive oil until they’re tender and transfer them to a big pot. Sauté zucchini until tender and add that to the pot. Sauté eggplant until tender and add that to the pot. Add peeled, seeded, diced tomatoes and red wine vinegar and cook until they thicken. Add them to the pot and heat everything through to combine flavors. 3. Zucchini-basil frittata: Sauté sliced onion and shredded zucchini in a nonstick skillet until the zucchini is no longer moist. Stir the mixture into a bowl of beaten eggs along with grated Parmesan cheese and torn basil leaves. Return the mixture to the skillet and cook, stirring, until the egg mixture sets like soft scrambled eggs. Run the pan under a broiler just until it browns on top. 4 . Zucchini pickles: Slice the zucchini about 1/16 of an inch thick. Combine in a bowl with a sliced onion and salt generously. Cover with ice water and set aside until the zucchini is softened, about 1 hour. Rinse and pat dry. Combine vinegar, sugar, dry mustard, mustard seeds and turmeric in a small saucepan and simmer for 3 minutes. Set aside until just warm to the touch. Pour the brine mixture over the zucchini, transfer to jars, seal tightly and refrigerate for at least a day. 5. Braised zucchini with mint and lemon: Braise the zucchini in olive oil with chopped onion, garlic, lemon zest and mint. When you remove the lid and turn the heat up to high, add more lemon juice and cook until the liquid is reduced to a syrup. Cool to warm room temperature and stir in more mint and toasted pine nuts. 6. Zucchini and pine nut salad: This is another very simple (and delicious) adaptation of a basic technique. Salt zucchini as in the bulgur salad and combine it with minced red onion and pine nuts and dress with olive oil and lemon juice. Stir in shredded basil just before serving. 7. Zucchini in agrodolce: Cut the zucchini into large pieces. Heat olive oil and a whole peeled garlic clove until the garlic begins to brown. Add the cut-up zucchini and cook until the zucchini begins to brown, add white vinegar, sugar, toasted pine nuts, softened golden raisins and a chopped anchovy fillet and cook until the liquid reduces to a syrup. Remove from the heat, stir in chopped mint and season to taste with salt and black pepper. This can be served either warm or cold. 8. Calabacitas con crema: Cut an onion into thick slices and cook slowly until golden. Add sliced garlic, a shredded roasted, peeled, seeded poblano and zucchini cut into thick slabs. Cook, covered, until the zucchini is tender. Add Mexican crema, increase the heat to medium, and cook until thickened. Just before serving, stir in chopped cilantro. 9. Garlic and herb-stuffed zucchini: Make a flavorful tomato sauce. Cut zucchini in half lengthwise and use a melon baller to carefully remove enough of the flesh from the center to make a boat. Season lightly with salt and steam until tender. Grind fresh bread to crumbs in a food processor with basil and garlic. Pour into a bowl and stir in chopped anchovies and toasted pine nuts. Pour the tomato sauce into a lightly oiled gratin dish and spoon the breadcrumb mixture into the zucchini, mounding it slightly on top. Drizzle with olive oil and bake until the tops of the breadcrumbs are browned. Serve hot or at room temperature. Russ Parsons, Los Angeles Times

Roasted Heirloom Cherry Tomato Soup Adapted from a recipe by Chris Nugent, executive chef at Goosefoot restaurant in Chicago. Nugent suggests passing the blended soup through a fine strainer; we omitted that step because we enjoyed the pureed texture. Nugent calls for a total of 1 cup olive oil in the recipe; we’ve cut that amount back considerably. For roasting, drizzle the vegetables with more olive oil if you like. 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 Spanish onions, peeled, halved 4 pounds ripe heirloom cherry tomatoes, about 6 1/2 pints 6 cloves garlic 3/4 teaspoon coarse salt, divided Freshly ground pepper 1/4 cup fresh basil leaves 8 cups chicken or vegetable stock 6 ounces goat cheese 2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar

Zucchini Fritters 1 pound zucchini Salt 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 green onion, chopped, green part only 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon minced jalapeno 2 tablespoons flour 1 egg, beaten Olive oil Greek-style yogurt SHRED zucchini and put it in a colander. Sprinkle generously with salt, mix well and set aside for at least 30 minutes to drain. Toast the cumin and coriander seeds in a small dry skillet over medium heat until they begin to pop and smell fragrant. Grind in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle. RINSE shredded zucchini under cold running water. Pick up a small handful, squeeze it dry and put it in the center of a linen dish towel. When you’ve squeezed all the zucchini by hand, gather the dish towel around the zucchini and twist, wringing out as much liquid as you can. The more liquid you remove, the lighter the fritter will be. PUT zucchini in a bowl and add the green onion, jalapeno, cumin and coriander and stir to mix well. Stir in the flour and then the beaten egg. The mixture should be sticky, but there shouldn’t be any free liquid. If there is, stir in a little more flour. POUR olive oil into a nonstick skillet to a depth of about one-fourth inch (it’ll take about one-fourth cup) and heat it over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot enough that a little bit of zucchini sizzles immediately, drop 4 (2 to 3 tablespoon) mounds of the batter into the pan, flattening them slightly with the back of a spoon. FRY until golden brown on one side, 3 to 4 minutes, then gently flip and fry until golden brown on the other side, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate and gently pat away any excess oil. Serve immediately, with a dollop of thick Greek yogurt. Yield: 8 servings Each fritter: 147 calories; 2 grams protein; 4 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 14 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 23 mg cholesterol; 1 gram sugar; 87 mg sodium.

Woven Zucchini with Goat Cheese 3 to 4 (6- to 7-inch) zucchini Salt Olive oil 1/2 clove garlic, minced 1 tablespoon lemon juice 10 to 12 cherry tomatoes 8 ounces fresh goat cheese 1 teaspoon dried oregano (preferably Sicilian) 6 leaves fresh basil TRIM ends of the zucchini to make them a uniform length. Slice them lengthwise as thin as you can, about one-eighth inch (this is most easily done with a mandoline, but if you’re careful, a very sharp knife will also work). You should have at least 24 thin strips of zucchini. PLACE zucchini in a bowl, salt generously and toss to coat, then transfer to a colander and set aside until the zucchini have softened, at least 30 minutes. WHISK together 3 tablespoons olive oil, the minced garlic and lemon juice and season with a pinch of salt. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half and season lightly with salt. RINSE zucchini slices under cold running water, then pat dry with a paper towel. Return to the bowl and season with just enough of the olive oil-lemon mixture to moisten lightly. WEAVING the zucchini may sound complicated (as with weaving a lattice-top pie), but it is not difficult at all. You’ll need 6 strips of squash for each plate. Arrange three strips of zucchini side-by-side on the first plate. Lift the middle strip and place one strip of zucchini perpendicular to the other strips and over the two outer strips, making an “H.” Unfold the middle strip over the perpendicular strip. Fold back the two end pieces on one side and lay another perpendicular strip, then unfold the end pieces. Repeat at the other end, then use your fingers to gently push the pieces together to make a tightly woven mat of zucchini. Repeat for the three remaining plates. PLACE fresh goat cheese in a bowl and stir in the dried oregano and the remainder of the olive oil-lemon mixture to make a smooth, creamy mixture. If necessary, add a little more olive oil. DIVIDE goat cheese mixture evenly among the four plates, spooning it in the center of the zucchini mat. Scatter the cherry tomato halves around the outside. Drizzle lightly with a little more good olive oil and sprinkle with coarse salt. Tear the basil leaves into small pieces and scatter over top. Serve at room temperature. Yield: 4 servings. Each serving: 336 calories; 15 grams protein; 9 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 28 grams fat; 13 grams saturated fat; 45 mg cholesterol; 7 grams sugar; 599 mg sodium.

More information HEAT oven to 375 degrees. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Place onion halves cut-side down in skillet; cook until caramelized, 4 minutes on each side. Set aside 1/4 pound tomatoes (about 3/4 cup) for garnish. Place remaining tomatoes, the caramelized onions and garlic on two rimmed baking sheets; drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, or more as needed. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Roast in the oven, 30 minutes. PLACE roasted tomatoes, onions, garlic, basil and chicken or vegetable stock in a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan; simmer, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes. Puree soup in a blender, in batches if necessary. Season with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Cut reserved cherry tomatoes in half. Serve in warm soup bowls garnished with goat cheese, halved cherry tomatoes and a balsamic vinegar drizzle. Servings: 6 (2-cups each) Per serving: 376 calories, 22 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 32 mg cholesterol, 30 g carbohydrates, 17 g protein, 862 mg sodium, 5 g fiber.

Red Snapper with Roasted Cherry Tomatoes Adapted from Antony Worrall Thompson’s “The Essential Low Fat Cookbook.” 9 ounces red and yellow cherry tomatoes 12 peeled garlic cloves 1 tablespoon olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 skinless snapper fillets, about 6 ounces each 1 tablespoon capers, drained 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar 16 fresh basil leaves, torn HEAT oven to 375 degrees. Put tomatoes, garlic cloves and olive oil in a large bowl. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper; toss to coat. Turn seasoned tomatoes into a roasting pan, place in oven and roast 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. CUT snapper fillets into 1-inch dice. Add fish pieces to tomatoes; season lightly. Roast another 10 to 12 minutes. Add capers, sherry vinegar and basil leaves. Toss very gently to combine and wilt basil leaves; take care not to break up the fish. Serve immediately. Yield: 4 servings

Zucchini Tian 1 large onion Olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced Salt 2 tablespoons slivered basil leaves 2 zucchini, cut into 1/4-inch rounds 16 to 20 cherry tomatoes, quartered 3 tablespoons slivered, pitted black olives Freshly ground black pepper 4 ounces fresh goat cheese HEAT oven to 350 degrees. Cut the onion in quarters lengthwise and then in one-fourth-inch crosswise strips. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is softened and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. OIL an earthenware, glass or enameled cast-iron baking pan approximately 10 by 8 inches. Scatter the onions across the bottom, season lightly with salt and scatter the basil leaves over the top. ARRANGE zucchini on top of the onions in a single tight-fitting crosswise row. Arrange the remaining zucchini following the same pattern, overlapping each successive row by about one-half. Scatter the cherry tomatoes and black olives evenly over the top and again season lightly with salt (remember, the goat cheese will be slightly salty) and more generously with black pepper. CRUMBLE goat cheese evenly over the top of the mixture, drizzle with olive oil and bake until the zucchini is very soft, the goat cheese is lightly browned, and most of the liquid from the vegetables has disappeared, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Yield: 6 servings Each serving: 166 calories; 6 grams protein; 8 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 13 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 15 mg cholesterol; 4 grams sugar; 137 mg sodium.

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The end of summer is only a few weeks away. That means two of our favorite ingredients – the beloved tomato and the versatile zucchini – will begin to disappear from the farmers market and be replaced at the grocery store with pale imitations grown hundreds of miles away.

Why not celebrate summer’s bounty while we can?

After weeks of fresh tomatoes on sandwiches, in pasta salad and simply sliced with oil and vinegar, roasting is the way to go. It intensifies the taste of a tomato like nothing else. While these recipes for a roasted tomato soup and red snapper with roasted tomatoes, garlic and basil call for cherry tomatoes, you could use plum instead.

The beauty of zucchini is that it can be served so many ways. The recipes on page 4D show off zucchini’s flexibility: sliced as a salad and topped with goat cheese, shredded and fried like a potato pancake or baked in a casserole until meltingly soft.

Seize the summer day.

Andrea Weigl

To see printable versions of the recipes, click on the name below:

Roasted Heirloom Cherry Tomato Soup

Red Snapper with Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Garlic and Basil

Zucchini Fritters

Woven Zucchini with Goat Cheese

Zucchini Tian

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