Weigl: Artisans adopt community supported agriculture

Published: September 11, 2012 

I was bragging recently about the Triangle’s food scene.

My exhibit A was that we have so many options based on the community supported agriculture (CSA) model. Not only can you pay a farmer for a weekly share of produce or a fisherman for a weekly delivery of seafood from the coast, you also can pay for a weekly or monthly delivery of homemade bread, soup, jams and jellies or pasture-raised meat.

This dawned on me when I got an email last month from Bread Uprising, a CS-Bread in Durham’s West End neighborhood.

Personal chef Noah Rubin-Blose and cartographer Tim Stallmann started this community bakery more than two years ago. They spend two days a week prepping and baking bread for 40 families who pay about $5 per loaf. They have converted Rubin-Blose’s kitchen into a production bakery with two ovens and a bread slicer.

For many of the artisans adopting a CSA model, this isn’t just a business. It’s a way to support a livelihood they love and to connect with people in their community. Bread Uprising not only offers bread to folks who can afford it but also to those who can’t; people pay on a sliding scale based on need. “It’s a different way to build community through food,” Stallmann says.

Now the pair behind Bread Uprising are trying to raise $10,000 online to expand their bakery. So far, they have raised almost $2,700.

“We’re really excited about how successful it has been so far,” Stallman says. “We hope to expand across Durham and the Triangle.”

As food artisans adopt the CSA model, they’re also teaming up with farmers and each other to create more interesting options for consumers. Rob Segovia-Welsh of Chicken Bridge Bakery partners with Tova Boehm of Short Winter Soups for weekly bread and soup subscriptions. In the winter, consumers who sign up for the Small Potatoes Farm CSA get a loaf of Chicken Bridge Bakery artisan bread.

“We love the CSA model, and I think this is the new direction it is taking. Instead of individual producers offering small boxes, groups of farmers, artisans and such are getting together to offer a more diverse selection of handmade goods,” Segovia-Welsh wrote in an email. “Customers have more to choose from and producers have more flexibility in what they offer – everyone wins.”

Or at least, our stomachs win.

Weigl: 919-829-4848, aweigl@newsobserver.com or follow on Twitter, @andreaweigl.

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