Restaurant News

New bistro opens in downtown Cary

CorrespondentMay 30, 2013 

Downtown Cary’s appeal as a dining destination got noticeably brighter this week when Academy Street Bistro (200 S. Academy St.; 919-377-0509; opened for the first time.

The restaurant is the first venture for owner/chef Brian Fitzgerald, a Culinary Institute of America grad who cut his culinary teeth in New York (including Maxim’s and, most recently, the Harvard Club).

Fitzgerald has given the former Klara’s space a fresh new look (but wisely kept the attractive patio), setting a suitably upscale-casual mood for his French-inflected contemporary menu.

But don’t take “French-inflected” to mean stuffy or tradition-bound. Mixed in among the likes of goujonette of lemon sole, roasted vegetable Napoleon, diver scallops with carrot ginger puree, and grilled sirloin steak with truffled twice-baked potatoes, you’ll also find a cheeseburger.

Granted, the cheese is Vermont white cheddar, and it’s served on a brioche bun with caramelized onions, applewood-smoked bacon and a side of classic fries. But still.

The wine-list is appropriately bistro-sized: a dozen or so by the glass, and a handful by the bottle. The taps that once dispensed Czech beers at Klara’s are now, for the most part, devoted to local brews.

Academy Street is open for dinner only, Tuesday-Saturday. Fitzgerald plans to add lunch service in two weeks, followed a couple of weeks later by Sunday brunch.

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