Fire up the grill to make chili steak with salsa

New York TimesAugust 20, 2013 

GOOD APPETITE 1

Chile-rubbed flank steak with pineapple and peppers for a tomatillo-pineapple salsa. The chunky tomatillo salsa, studded with bits of sweet, caramelized pineapple, walks the line between condiment and side dish and nicely sets off the brawny meat.

ANDREW SCRIVANI — NYT

  • To drink

    A fine piece of grilled flank steak is an open invitation to a world of red wines to show their stuff. But what happens when you add chili’s heat, to say nothing of nomadic travelers in the wine world like tomatillo and pineapple? Not to worry. The char of the meat will still be the dominant flavor, though amplified and augmented by the additions.

    I recommend a dry Loire red, like one of the less-structured Chinons, Bourgueils or Saumur-Champignys. Unless they are too tannic, they seem to have an affinity for chilies. What’s more, their fruit, spice and acidity will take naturally to the fruitiness of the tomatillo, pineapple and, indeed, the chili. Other options: cru Beaujolais and West Coast gamays, if you can find them; lighter-bodied Ribeira Sacra and Bierzos, made from the menca grape; and Austrian blaufrnkisches and zweigelts.

  • More information

    Eric Asimov/New York Times

I’ll admit that most of the grilled meals I make are about as basic as it gets. Throw some combination of protein and vegetables onto the grill, set the table, open the wine and call it a meal. Sauce is just a drizzle of olive oil and maybe some herbs from the deck. It keeps the kitchen cool, feeds the family and is about as easy as can be.

This chili-rubbed flank steak with tomatillo-pineapple salsa is a dish of a higher order. It’s a company-friendly endeavor that takes a little more forethought (marinating!), some minor effort with the coals (indirect heat!) and a bit of concentration. You have to keep track of how all the ingredients are cooking and pull them off the grill one by one before they burn. Not that any of the techniques is challenging or time consuming. It’s just not the kind of thing you can do on auto-pilot.

But the payoff is great. The steak comes out charred and spicy on the outside, seasoned with oregano, orange juice and chili powder, and juicy on the inside. And the chunky tomatillo salsa studded with bits of sweet, caramelized pineapple walks the line between condiment and side dish, nicely setting off the brawny meat. It’s a festive, colorful meal for a cookout.

If you can organize yourself the day before, let the meat marinate a full 24 hours so it can really absorb the complex, earthy heat of New Mexico chili powder. (Seek out the good stuff; its intense, almost fruity flavor makes a difference.)

Flank steak is a muscly cut that toughens up if you overcook it. Rare or medium-rare is optimal, and medium is as far as you should push it. If you like well-done meat, choose a more tender cut like rib-eye.

Always slice flank steak across the grain; it breaks up the muscle fibers and makes it easier to chew.

If you serve this dish with warmed tortillas, sliced avocado and maybe quick-pickled onions or jalapenos, it can pass as steak tacos. Or serve it with potato and corn salad as a more traditional entree. But whatever you do, serve it to friends. It’s a dish made for summertime sharing.

For a printable copy of the recipe, click the link:

Grilled Chili Flank Steak with Tomatillo-Pineapple Salsa

Grilled Chili Flank Steak With Tomatillo-Pineapple Salsa 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice 1 tablespoon New Mexico chili powder 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, more as needed 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 pounds flank steak 1/2 pound fresh peeled pineapple in 1/2-inch slices 3/4 pound whole tomatillos, husks removed 1/2 onion (cut stem to root), peeled 2 jalapeno peppers, halved and seeded 1 head garlic, halved diametrically 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil Black pepper, as needed 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro Lime wedges, for serving

COMBINE the orange juice, chili powder, oregano and 1 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Place steak into a large glass or ceramic container and coat all over with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

MAKE the salsa: Light a grill, keeping a small area unlit for indirect heat. Grill pineapple over direct heat until charred on both sides, 3 to 5 minutes a side. Toss the tomatillos, onion, jalapenos and garlic with olive oil, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and black pepper. Place the garlic over indirect heat, cut-side down, and grill until charred and somewhat tender, 6 to 10 minutes (do not turn). Grill the onion, cut-side down over direct heat, until well charred, 3 to 5 minutes (do not turn). Grill the tomatillos and jalapenos over direct heat on both sides until they are tender and blistered, 1 to 3 minutes a side.

WHEN cool enough to handle, peel onion and coarsely chop it and tomatillos and jalapenos. Squeeze the garlic from the peel and mash with the flat side of a knife, then chop. In a bowl, combine vegetables, half the garlic and the pineapple. Toss in cilantro and season with a squeeze of lime juice and salt and pepper to taste.

GRILL steak until done to taste, about 2 to 4 minutes a side. Let rest for 10 minutes, then smear the remaining garlic on top. Carve steak against the grain and serve with the salsa and lime wedges.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

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