Pintful

Pintful: Richmond’s special place in beer history fuels craft beer boom

March 20, 2014 

  • The Pintful Brewery Tour

    Lickinghole Creek Craft Brewery

    4100 Knolls Point Drive, Goochland, Va., lickingholecreek.com

    On tap: A self-described farm brewery, Lickinghole Creek is about 45 minutes outside Richmond. The tasting room is small, but if the weather is nice, enjoy overlooking the fields that grows hops, grain and other ingredients for the brews. The Short Pump saison is a good example of the brewery’s style.

    Hardywood Park Craft Brewery

    2408 Ownby Lane, Richmond, Va., hardywood.com

    On tap: Expect complex, rich beers with a twist at this much-hyped brewery – like the Raspberry Stout or India pale ale aged on Virginia poplar wood. The Gingerbread Stout is a can’t-miss, and so is The Great Return, a West Coast-styled IPA sold in a can. Tasting room hours are limited, so plan accordingly.

    Isley Brewing Co.

    1715 Summit Ave., Richmond, Va., isleybrewingcompany.com

    On tap: Owner Mike Isley’s family owns a 100-year-old plumbing and heating business that did the first work on the brewery’s building in 1920. The brew system is small, and he likes it that way to keep the tap list fresh. Try the peanut butter porter. And look for a rooftop deck this year to add to the brewery’s allure.

    Strangeways Brewing

    2277A Dabney Road, Richmond, Va., strangewaysbrewing.com

    On tap: On a Richmond beer tour, save plenty of time for this place. The 25 taps require deep examination. The brewery often makes a single style of beer many different ways, allowing tasters to train their palates. The Albino Monkey Belgian White is an early crowd-pleaser, and if you like sour beers, this is the place to try.

    Center of the Universe Brewing Co.

    11293 Air Park Road, Ashland, Va., cotubrewing.com

    On tap: Known by the locals as COTU, it is located just north on Interstate 95 from Richmond. Founded by two homebrewing brothers, one a former major league baseball pitcher and the other an engineer, the brewery recently partnered with the local minor league team to brew an amber lager called Chin Music.

    Mekong Restaurant and Bar

    6004 W. Broad St., Richmond, Va., mekongisforbeerlovers.com

    On tap: At this cavernous Vietnamese restaurant in a nondescript strip mall, the tap list is as thick as a book and needs the same amount of study. It features a number of special, rare beers from local breweries and others across the nation. It earns its billing as a top craft beer bar in America.

    Other breweries and tours

    Legend Brewing Co., 321 W. Seventh St., Richmond, Va., legendbrewing.com

    Midnight Brewery, 2410 Granite Ridge Road #5, Rockville, Va., midnight-brewery.com

    Blue Bee Cider, 212 W. Sixth Street, Richmond, Va., bluebeecider.com

    Bottle shops

    Once Upon A Vine, 4009 MacArthur Ave., Richmond, Va., onceuponavine.us

    Corks & Kegs, 7110 Patterson Ave., Richmond, Va., corksandkegs.com

    Mark Your Calendar

    • National Beer Expo, July 16-19.

    A three-day festival celebrating food and beer with events at breweries across Richmond. Info: nationalbeerexpo.com

    • Hardywood Gingerbread Stout Release, mid-November.

    One of the most-sought beers in the Southeast is released in bottles each November with great fanfare. Hundreds lined up in 2013, but there was plenty to go around. A month later look for the bourbon barrel-aged version release.

— For a city steeped in history, it’s no surprise that Richmond holds a special place in the lineage of beer.

The first beer sold in a can debuted in Virginia’s capital city in 1935. It was a grand experiment from New Jersey-based Gottfried Kruger Brewing Co., and it proved a hit.

A toast to Richmond’s place in beer history is a good way to start a tour of its thriving new craft beer scene, just a 2 1/2-hour drive north from Raleigh. Hardywood Park Craft Brewery, in a warehouse district just north of downtown, makes it possible.

As an homage to one of the first Kruger beers to ship to Richmond, Hardywood sells its cream ale in a can, complete with directions on how to open it, just like the first shipment nearly 80 years ago.

The brewery, co-founded by Eric McKay, who has family ties to Raleigh, is the city’s best. It specializes in barrel-aged beers and unique offerings, drawing crowds in the hundreds for some of its special beer releases. The Gingerbread Stout, a decadent holiday spiced dark beer, ranks as one of the Southeast’s most coveted bottles.

Opened in 2011, Hardywood counts as one of the more established craft breweries in the city. Richmond is a young scene but one growing with huge potential, much like its brethren in North Carolina.

The scene “is very new,” said Tommy Miller, who operates Richmond Brewery Tours. “But Richmond is grabbing onto that history of being the aluminum can innovator … and breweries are latching onto that and the consumers are really supporting it.”

What’s exciting for visitors is the downtown beer district beginning to develop, with five breweries sandwiched within 5 miles or so and more on the way.

Hardywood is a good place to start. So is Legends Brewing, a brew pub on the banks of the James River that is the granddaddy of the beer scene, celebrating 20 years in 2014.

From there, move to newcomer breweries Isley and Strangeways, which are getting early acclaim.

Mike Isley has a small three-barrel brewhouse that lets his brewers try a number of different styles. The early favorite is Choosy Mother, a peanut butter oatmeal porter served on nitrogen, which adds another layer of creaminess. “We have some real just true beers, and then on the other end we think real outside the box,” he said.

At Strangeways Brewing, experimentation is the name of the game. The brewery features an unheard-of 25 taps of their own beer, including a series they call “curiosities.”

Head brewer Mike Hiller said the brewery’s style is hard to pinpoint. “Everything we do is strange. It’s weird,” he said. “With few exceptions, we don’t brew anything to a particular style.”

One of the must-hit destinations on the city’s beer list is not a brewery. Mekong Restaurant touts itself as the best craft beer bar in America (so declared by a national online survey) and lives up to the billing.

The Vietnamese restaurant is in a random strip mall on a main drag filled with neon lights. But inside the beer list and food won’t disappoint.

An Bui, the restaurant’s beer director, says beer is the answer to just about any question, and he means it. He gets beers that you can’t find anywhere else in the region.

“They are our mainstay capital for everything craft beer,” says Miller, the tour guide. “It’s where locals go to try to taste it first.”

Contact John at 919-829-4698 or jfrank@newsobserver.com.

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