RALEIGH — Live Crabs, $5.99 per pound reads the paper sign hanging on the glass door of Saltwater Seafood, which on a good day sells 2,000 pounds of fish and shellfish.
Two years ago, that same North Carolina hard-shell blue crab cost customers just $2.99 per pound.
Its a sign of a faltering North Carolina commercial fishing industry. A surge in prices has accompanied a drop in the states fish and shellfish harvest, which fell in 2013 for the fourth year in a row to the lowest in 10 years, according to a recent report from the N.C. Division of Marine Fisheries.
The 50 million pounds of fish and shellfish North Carolina commercial fishermen landed in 2013 is 12 percent less than in 2012 and 21 percent down from the five-year average. But the value, close to $79 million, was 9 percent higher than in 2012 and the highest price per pound in a decade.
Its just a small amount getting landed, and the price just goes crazy, said George Earp, who helps run Saltwater Seafood Market and Fry Shack, off Capital Boulevard.
There are several reasons for the smaller catch, starting with a smaller number of active commercial fishermen, which is about two-thirds what it was a decade ago. Rising fuel costs, shoaling at Oregon Inlet and regulations that put some species of fish off-limits to commercial fishing for months at a time also contribute to fewer landings.
You get tired of going out there and catching fish and throwing them away to satisfy regulation, said Terry Pratt, a Bertie County resident who fishes in Albemarle Sound. He says he throws back about 1,000 pounds of striped bass, which were banned from fishermens nets in April, for every few hundred pounds of perch or catfish.
Fresh, local fish are worth the rising price to customers such as Ian Sunshine of Raleigh. The first-time customer at Saltwater Seafood looked over oysters, crabs and shrimp last week for his annual seafood steam for family and friends.
I do it once a year, so I dont think about how much it costs, Sunshine said.
Not all customers are so sanguine. Earps Seafood in Raleigh has had to raise prices in the last year or two, assistant manager Daniel Stewart said.
We are having to charge more, or we wouldnt stay in business, Stewart said. But you gotta think about customers asking why everything is going up so high.
Blue crabs scarcer
Blue crabs are not only more expensive than usual, they are particularly hard to come by, Stewart said. Two weeks ago, we couldnt get any, he said.
Still the biggest seafood catch in the state by weight and value, blue crab landings were down to 21 million pounds in 2013 from about 27 million pounds the year before. Except for 2007, thats the smallest amount of blue crab landed in the state since 1977.
Fishermen are having trouble finding them, partly due to heavy rains that flood estuaries with freshwater, killing crabs and other saltwater species, said Stephen Taylor, a shellfish biologist in Wilmington who works for the Division of Marine Fisheries. The winters and springs in 2012 and 2013 were both very wet, Taylor said, taking a toll on crabs and deterring crabbers from getting out to work.
Another problem is a surge in population of red drum fish, which feed on blue crabs and grow up to 5 feet long. Last fall, fishermen hauled in so much red drum that they exceeded the states annual 250,000-pound limit, prompting regulators to stop catches. Red drum is illegal to catch until Sept. 1.
There was just a lot of red drum, said Alan Bianchi, a statistician with the division. And they landed more than they were allotted for, and because of that, we had to shut it down for the rest of the year.
Red drum not only eat crab, but they also get pulled up in large numbers with other catches such as southern flounder, one species that fishermen caught more of last year than in 2012. The by-catching of red drum is a problem when the fish is illegal to keep.
Red drum is going to cost us our flounder season, said Buck Cutrell, a fisherman who works out of Aurora.
Alison Willis, a fisher who works with her husband, Eddie, out of Carteret County, agreed. They are sort of everywhere at this point, and very difficult for fishermen to avoid, she said.
The Willises catch mainly shrimp, another commodity that dropped off in 2013. North Carolina commercial fishermen landed 4.9 million pounds of shrimp in 2013, down from 6.1 million pounds in 2012. Shrimpers say regulations that limit where they can catch shrimp were tough on the business.
Trish Murphy, a biologist with the fisheries division, said to protect shrimp numbers, authorities shut certain areas down until shrimp can rebound. Last year, the number of brown shrimp was down, possibly because of wet weather, Murphy said.
Rainfall can have an impact, she said. But she said fewer fishermen were out making the effort to catch them. That could be several things, like fuel cost and competition.
But Alison Willis said their business did fine last year and that they never have any trouble selling their shrimp. The demand for local, its endless, she said. People want local shrimp.
Part of the reason for their success is their involvement with Core Sound Seafood, a community-supported fishery that helps get their product to what Willis called a niche inland market.
Fishermen: Regulations hurt
Fishermen also face obstacles such as the shallow waters of Oregon Inlet, which, just a few feet deep, limits navigation. That may have contributed to the drastic drop in summer flounder landed in the state. In 2013, fishermen landed 541,661 pounds of summer flounder, nearly half of the 1,087,427 pounds in 2012.
Bianchi said some fishermen are landing their fish in Virginia to avoid the shallow inlet, while some have just not gone offshore to fish.
Many fishermen say the biggest obstacle to their business is the government regulations meant to prevent overfishing.
Once fishermen reach an annual quota on fish, even if its just after a few days, the state shuts down the season. In addition, trip limits, closures of some habitat, and caps on the number of pounds a fisherman can bring to the dock at a time all make fishing less efficient or add to the cost.
The government mainly put us out of business with regulations and laws, said Tommy Everett, a fourth-generation fisherman who lives in Sneads Ferry.
Everett owned LT Everett and Sons Seafood until Dec. 31, when he had to close his doors.
They just wont let us fish, Everett said. People just cant make it.
Everetts father opened the business in 1942, and it shipped fish to Boston, Philadelphia and New York City. But, he said, with tightening restrictions on where fishermen can fish, how many fish they can catch and more, there was no way to pay your bills.
Last year and 2012, he said, were especially bad years for the amount you could catch.
A dying industry
Peter Darna, a fisherman who works out of Oriental, said he could make money from speckled trout, but the state closed the fishery this winter after a cold snap that killed many of the trout in coastal creeks. The fishery is closed through June 15.
The regulations are hurting us, Darna said. Theres plenty of fish out there. Theres no shortage of fish. Theres more speckled trout than Ive ever seen. And we cant keep them. And theres a lot of (red) drum, and you cant keep them.
Earp of Saltwater Seafood said he buys most of Darnas fish, but doesnt think hes bought any since December because Darna hasnt been able to fish.
Its not only him. Its all up and down the coast, Earp said. At this rate, were in a dying industry. Laws and regulations will end up putting the commercial fisherman out of business.
Commercial fisherman Chris McCaffity, who works out of Morehead City and is a vocal opponent of strict regulation, said the total closures lead to waste because fish caught during the closures must be tossed back even if they are dead.
One solution, he said, would be to enact partial fishery closures, which would allow fishermen to catch restricted species all year, just in smaller numbers.
I believe in quotas. I believe you need management, McCaffity said. But you need to have reasonable quotas based on sound science. We need to work together, fishery managers and fishermen.