Judging by its recent low-key debut, you'd never guess that An (677-9229; www.ancuisines.com) is one of the most ambitious restaurants ever to open in Cary. Any doubts will quickly be dispelled once you set foot inside the palatial new 10,000-square-foot building at 2800 Renaissance Park Place and find yourself ensconced in a nest of intimate spaces sumptuously appointed in mahogany and rattan.

The French colonial setting is an appropriate backdrop for the food. Chef Michael Chuong, who owns the restaurant with the financial backing of Ann Goodnight (one of many fans he acquired during his eight years as executive chef at Prestonwood Country Club) describes his cuisine as "New World, with an emphasis on Southeast Asian." That translates to a breathtakingly adventurous menu whose offerings include red curry rock shrimp cassolette baked in puff pastry, miso- and maple-glazed sea bass, Mekong bouillabaisse, tea-smoked duckling, and rack of lamb with goat cheese, cashews, galangal and sun-dried tomato sauce. For those interested in a quick bite, the Asian Bar serves sushi and light Vietnamese fare.

An's extensive, internationally diverse wine list is thoughtfully chosen with Chuong's inventive menu in mind, and includes 40 wines by the glass and 30 artisanal sakes.

An (pronounced ahn; in Vietnamese it means "to dine") joins a small but growing number of ethnic fine dining restaurants -- Azitra, Jibarra and Mura come to mind -- that clearly aim to transcend their cultural roots with a combination of lavish decor and contemporary, often Western-influenced, menu. In the past year, Azitra (Indian), Jibarra (Mexican) and Mura (Japanese) have joined that elite list. Early indications are that An's distinctive Southeast Asian accent will be a welcome addition.

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