The good news for beefeaters is that the steakhouse is making a comeback. Juicy steaks, so recently out of favor, have been enjoying a resurgence in popularity unparalleled since the '60s.

The bad news is that, more than ever, the steak dinner deserves its reputation as a luxurious splurge. A decent-size rib-eye is apt to set you back upwards of $30 in one of those posh new steakhouses that have sprung up in some of the Triangle's most fashionable locations. And that doesn't include sides.

If you're willing to drive a bit, however, and don't mind trading a trendy ambience for a more bucolic setting, have I ever got a deal for you. You'll find it at Chops, a country-casual steakhouse on the southern outskirts -- and I do mean outskirts -- of Garner.

What makes Chops steaks so special, other than their price, is that they're dry-aged on the premises. You'll see the beef hanging in the temperature- and humidity-controlled aging locker just inside the front door. No other steakhouse in the area, regardless of price, can make this claim.

Half a dozen cuts are offered, from the six-ounce sirloin at $12.99 to the pound-and-a-half porterhouse for $24.95. For my money, though, the 14-ounce rib-eye delivers the most bang for your buck at $18.99. A well-marbled inch and a quarter thick, grilled to order over 1,700-degree flames, this cut showcases the intensified beefiness of dry aging at its best.

The price includes the vegetable of the day (if it's garlicky, crisp-tender green beans, then you must be living right), and a side dish of your choice (steak fries and white cheddar smashed potatoes are both winners). It also includes a freshly baked loaf of soft, wheaty bread.

Before you pick up the phone to call for reservations, let me share one more dose of good news-bad news with you. This time, the bad news first: Chops' prices are going up -- anywhere from $2 to $5 per dinner -- at the end of October.

The good news? It'll still be a bargain.

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