I've been wanting to sample the kebabs at Baba Grill (8201-107 Brier Creek Parkway.; 806-5700; www.babagrill.com) since the restaurant opened late last year in Brier Creek Commons. Even more than the kebabs, though, and more than the handful of hard-to-find Persian specialties sprinkled among the more familiar Middle Eastern offerings, I was eager to check out the restaurant's other claim to fame: house-baked lavash. To my knowledge, Baba Grill is the first restaurant in the Triangle to be equipped with the specialized oven used to bake lavash, a pita variant that's favored in Iran.

Whoever is manning that oven knows what he's doing, too, as I happily learned when I stopped in for lunch recently. A large, sesame-spangled flatbread that's crisp at the edges and supple in the middle, Baba Grill's lavash makes a peerless foundation for an order of lamb kebabs. The lightly blistered surface of the bread is just porous enough to absorb the juices of the lamb, which has been marinated in a spice blend and is grilled to a medium temperature but is nonetheless succulent. Kebab platters are served with roasted tomatoes, a fistful of parsley sprigs and a thick, minty tzatziki made with Greek yogurt -- further evidence that this modest counter service eatery is the real deal.

In an area where the overwhelming majority of Middle Eastern restaurants are counter service delis, Sahara (100-104 Jerusalem Drive, Morrisville; 469-1003) aims to make its mark as a full table service establishment. Service was attentive when I visited recently, and the atmosphere was pleasant enough.

But the food, unfortunately, was inconsistent. The hummus that was part of a mezze platter I sampled recently was tasty, as was the "veggie spread," which was loaded with the flavor of roasted red peppers. Grape leaves were only average, however, and the baba ghanoush left a slightly fizzy feeling on the tongue, a sign that the dish had begun to ferment. Rotisserie-roasted chicken was respectable, and the citrus-tinged Mediterranean spice marinade a refreshing change of pace. But lamb kebabs were chewy and dry.

Sahara opened just over three months ago, and it's possible that owner Shadi Rahal is still ironing out the wrinkles. At least, I hope that's the case. The Triangle could certainly use more sit-down Middle Eastern restaurants.

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