301 Glenwood Ave., Raleigh
Originally reviewed by Greg Cox on 4/18/2014
Entering Plates, your eye is drawn to a colorful display of plates on the left wall. An eclectic collection embracing everything from English Blue Willow china to Polish folk art pottery . . . The plates are a nod to the restaurant’s name, of course. Turns out they’re also an apt metaphor for owner/chef Steve Day’s food, which is as refined as porcelain and at the same time as unpretentious as everyday stoneware.
Time and again, Day delivers with a seasonally evolving menu that, in a highly trained culinary circus act, deftly keeps multiple plates spinning in the air, all the while making it look easy.
Take the sweet potato-coconut curry soup he offered recently. A deceptively simple dish, the soup pairs two inherently sweet ingredients without letting the sweetness dominate. At the same time, those ingredients are held in exquisite balance in a way that the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
Read the full review and others at our restaurant review archive, themenunc.com.