2519 Fairview Road, Raleigh
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Originally reviewed by Greg Cox on 5/11/2012
Chilled pea soup with country ham and béarnaise sauce, a recent offering on owner/chef Sean Fowler’s daily showcase of local produce, evokes just as many satisfied moans as a foie gras torchon with pain perdu and poached pears – for half the price.
You certainly won’t forget Fowler’s rendition of the soul food classic, chicken and waffles. An exquisitely juicy breast with a shatter-crisp crust takes center stage, with buckwheat waffle and braised mustard greens in supporting roles.
The crowning touch is a bacon-mushroom foam, one of the molecular gastronomy techniques that the chef occasionally employs to add cutting-edge pizazz to a menu whose roots are firmly planted in Southern tradition. Another contemporary culinary riff takes the form of an egg, poached in an immersion circulator into an oval of silk that oozes when pierced with a fork, saucing an impeccable pan-seared flounder.
Read the full review and others at our restaurant review archive, themenunc.com.