Dining is fine, but there'll be no wining

RALEIGH -- At the N.C. State Fair, you can buy North Carolina peanuts, North Carolina barbecue sauce, North Carolina hot dogs, even North Carolina salsa. One thing you cannot buy at the fair is North Carolina wine.

Three years ago, wine industry officials asked state Agriculture Commissioner Steve Troxler to let them offer samples and sell bottles of wine during the annual agricultural festival, which attracts more than 850,000 visitors.

Troxler said no. He says he doesn't oppose the wineries offering samples at the fair but disapproves of them selling bottles.

"From the standpoint of it being a family event, we thought it was not wise to sell wine," Troxler said. He later added: "We fully support the North Carolina wine industry. We made a call based on what would be the best decision for the safety of those coming to the fair."

The winemakers don't see the point of offering samples if they can't make a sale. Some say Troxler's position, not new among N.C. agriculture commissioners, is a relic from the state's dry past.

"We've had this anti-alcohol thing for a long time. Maybe this is a carry-over from it," said Willard Hinnant, co-owner of Hinnant Family Vineyards in Pine Level. Adds Charles Shelton, owner of Shelton Vineyards: "It's time for North Carolina to grow up and be like the rest of the world."

Troxler, a Republican, faces re-election in a few weeks against Democratic challenger Ronnie Ansley, a Raleigh lawyer. Ansley hasn't taken a position but said he would consider letting N.C. wineries sell bottles if they can arrange for fairgoers to pick up their purchases as they leave. "I don't think we should punish our wine industry and not let them showcase their products," Ansley said.

What other states do

Wine at state fairs is not uncommon; many states with vibrant wine industries allow tastings and sales. In California, fairgoers can buy bottles of wine. In Texas and Minnesota, wineries can sell samples and glasses of wine at their fairs' respective wine gardens but cannot sell bottles.

North Carolina's wine industry has grown rapidly in recent years. In 2000, there were about a dozen wineries; now, there are 80. Their economic impact is $813 million a year, according to the N.C. Wine & Grape Council.

Wine industry officials say they, too, are concerned about fairgoers' safety and have proposed a tasting area where a law enforcement officer checks identification and fairgoers receive a hand stamp. Fairgoers would pay a $2 tasting fee to receive a limited number of one-ounce samples. No children would be allowed.

"For me, serving alcohol isn't a problem. It's how you serve it," said Jerry Douglas, senior vice president of Biltmore Brands. "If you are concerned about people getting drunk, then put in some limits. I don't think it's going to become 'Roadhouse' after hours."

Wine officials can point to the safe success of wine tastings at the Dixie Classic Fair run by the city of Winston-Salem. Free wine tastings have been held there since 2004 in a similar manner: an ALE agent checks identification, children are not allowed, fairgoers have their hands stamped and are limited to five one-ounce samples.

"We've never had any problems whatsoever," said Jim Collins, the Dixie Classic Fair's wine coordinator. Adds David Sparks, the fair director: "We see wine as an agriculture product in North Carolina. Our mission is to promote agriculture products."

However, Winston-Salem city officials have yet to allow the sale of wine bottles during the fair, though Collins is hopeful they will eventually.