Life
Published Wed, Nov 04, 2009 02:00 AM
Modified Wed, Nov 04, 2009 07:02 AM

Falling for fig cake

Juli Leonard - juli.leonard@newsobserver.com
Ocracoke Fig Cake was a moist, delicious delight found on one of North Carolina's barrier islands.
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- Staff Writer

I fell in love on my honeymoon - with Ocracoke fig cake.

Inside the display case at the Ocracoke Fish & Seafood Co., next to the blue fish and the squid, was a plastic container holding slices of this glazed spice cake, a culinary tradition on the barrier island just south of Hatteras.

Fig cake became a culinary custom on the island because figs are the only fruit that grow well there, explained Elizabeth Wiegand, author of "The Outer Banks Cookbooks: Recipes and Traditions from North Carolina's Barrier Islands." Fig trees flourish in the island's sandy soil and benefit from the nutrients released by the clam and oyster shells that locals use as mulch around the trees' trunks.

At the house we rented for our honeymoon, a fig tree was growing out from under the back porch. Its limbs contorted to reach the sunlight. Alas, the lone fig on the tree did not ripen during our two-week stay, but I was sated by several slices of cake.

Gaynelle Tillett, who bakes the cakes sold by the slice at the fish market, said she picks figs all over the island from mid-July until the end of August. Tillett, 73, an Ocracoke native, repays the trees' owners with cakes and jars of fig preserves. Even with those repayments, she picked enough figs to sell about 40 cases of preserves to the fish market and to the Village Craftsmen, an arts and crafts store.

Jude Brown, the Village Craftsmen's manager, said they ship those preserves, the key ingredient in the cake, all over the country. "By Christmas time, it's all gone," she said.

On the island, Brown explained, the competition isn't centered on who makes the best fig cake but rather on who has the best fig trees.

"It's a cultish thing over here," Brown said about fig tree bragging rights. Brown's niece has a large collection of fig trees, including one that came from the family homestead of her niece's husband on the now uninhabited Portsmouth Island. Brown said she was honored to receive a cutting from that tree last year and horrified when her chicken ate that tree's two lone figs this summer.

Despite the cake's isolated origin, the recipe will be familiar to Southern cooks.

"This is a version of the jam cake that everyone in the South makes," explained Nancie McDermott, the Chapel Hill author who wrote "Southern Cakes: Sweet and Irresistible Recipes for Everyday Celebrations." And it is not necessary to have fig preserves to make the cake because McDermott figured out to how to make it using dried figs.

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    To buy Ocracoke fig preserves

    Village Craftsmen, 252-928-5541, www.villagecraftsmen.com

    Woccocon Nursery & Gifts, 252-928-3811. Owner Della Gaskill also will ship the cakes.

    Ocracoke Fish & Seafood Co., 252-928-5601

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