News & Observer | newsobserver.com | Eatery's twin is no clone

Published: Sep 26, 2007 08:19 AM
Modified: Sep 26, 2007 08:19 AM

Eatery's twin is no clone

 

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A strictly vegetarian, mostly Southern Indian menu has proved so successful for Tower that the Morrisville restaurant celebrated its fifth anniversary earlier this year. It comes as no surprise, then, that owner Vera Kalimuthu has opened a second restaurant in the town that welcomed the first one so enthusiastically. What is surprising is that Kandas, which Kalimuthu opened in early September, and Tower are about as different as two Indian restaurants can be.

Most immediately obvious to the lunchtime crowd is the fact that, unlike Tower, Kandas does not offer a buffet. More significant, though, is the new restaurant's menu, which is loaded with nonvegetarian options, from Kerala fish curry to chicken tikka masala to tandoori mixed grill. The more squeamish among us might even find themselves averting their eyes (while the rest of us salivate) at the sight of exotic specialties such as curried anchovies and Chettinad goat liver fry.

Not that vegetarians will lack for options, with choices including familiar standbys such as lentil dal and sag paneer, as well as hard-to-find dishes such as chile pakoras and Madurai omelet with green chiles, cilantro and curry leaves. The broad selection represents a cross-section of regional cuisines, bucking a trend toward increasing specialization in area Indian restaurants (tandoori chicken pizza, anyone? You'll find it at Spice & Curry's Pizza & Snack Bar, which opened in July on East Chatham Street in Cary).

Also in Cary, Dickey's Barbecue Pit represents an altogether different option for carnivores. The restaurant, which opened two weeks ago in Crossroads Shopping Center, is the first Triangle location of a Dallas-based chain that serves a variety of smoky fare, from Texas-style beef brisket and smoked sausages to Southern pulled pork to Italian-marinated smoked chicken breast. Service is cafeteria style, with barbecue served on plates with two sides (fried okra, jalapeno beans and dill cream potato salad, to name three), or as sandwiches.

Meanwhile in Chapel Hill, carnivorous cravings are satisfied by certified

Angus beef burgers at P.T.'s Olde Fashioned Grille. The restaurant, which took over the dining room side of Lucy's bar two weeks ago, also serves kosher dogs and a variety of sandwiches, but it's the burgers -- available in 4-ounce and 8-ounce versions, grilled to order and accompanied by fresh-cut skin-on fries -- that have been voted for 10 years running as the best burger in Wilmington, the chain's hometown. P.T.'s is open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. (later if they're still busy). Lucy's continues to operate as a bar on Thursday-Saturday nights.

Greg’s Hot List: Sports Pubs (Part 2)

Last week, I offered a scouting report on sports pubs in Raleigh and Wake County. This week, as promised, I’m giving equal time to Durham and Chapel Hill.

Bailey’s Pub & Grille, 1722 Fordham Blvd., in Ram’s Plaza, Chapel Hill; 918-1005.

Bub O’Malley’s, 157 E. Rosemary St., Chapel Hill; 942-6903.

Carolina Ale House, 3911 Durham-Chapel Hill Blvd., Durham; 490-2001.

Dain’s Place, 754 Ninth St., Durham; 416-8800.

Devine’s, 904 West Main Street, Durham; 682-0228.

Four Corners, 175 E. Franklin St., Chapel Hill; 968-3809.

Satisfaction, 905 West Main St., Brightleaf Square, Durham; 682-7397.

Sunset Grille, Sutton Station, 5850 Fayetteville Rd., Durham; 231 Grande Heights Drive, Cary; 544-8585 (Durham); 380-1991 (Cary).

Contact Greg at ggcox@bellsouth.net.

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