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As has happened with many things as I've gotten older, I've realized where I can loosen up. Hot, sanitized jars and lids, and following the processing time: no alterations. Everything else: Try it and see if it works. Like the time I added lime peel and juice to blueberry jam (didn't work, tasted like Jell-O).

Blackberry jam was one of the first I tried, and I discovered my grandmother was right about her choice. Despite my best efforts in straining, the result was crunchy with hard seeds -- not what you want to eat on your breakfast toast. Jelly is the way to go.

Unlike her, I prefer to make a party out of jam-making. Friends come over, we mash and stir and breathe in sweet scents and solve our problems. When everything else in life is spinning like a Tilt-A-Whirl, seeing colorful jars line up and hearing them seal with a merry "ping" restores a little order.

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Making jam from fresh fruit is so easy, and you don't have to go through the canning process; freezing it works, too. Place it in plastic containers that will hold a cup or two (Ball makes ones just for this use) and let stand until set, not more than 24 hours, before freezing. Thaw in the refrigerator.

If you want to can the jam, you'll need a canning kettle to hold the jars in boiling water and a jar lifter (like a very large pair of tongs) to pull them out. These are available in old-time hardware stores or some big-box retailers. Jars, lids and other canning supplies are available in most supermarkets this time of year. You can order canning supplies online at www.homecanning.com.

You'll need powdered pectin, which helps the mixture gel. I like the low- or no-sugar version of pectin, which allows you to put as much or as little sugar in your jam as you like.

To prepare the jam, simply follow the directions inside the pectin box. You may also want to get the latest version of the Ball Blue Book, which is considered the ultimate canning reference, with up-to-date safety information and recipes.

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