Cukes go with Tar Heel summer

Grow it

I lost my Grandpa Holland 30 years ago; he was 84. I still remember his lush vegetable garden and love affair with cucumbers. He boasted that he was the only geezer around who could eat raw cucumbers with no ill effects.

I was never that lucky, although Debbie, like Grandpa Holland, enjoys cukes in all forms. I like pickled cukes, though, particularly bread and butter pickles.

To grow pickling cucumbers in the Piedmont and eastward, look for one of the three "C" varieties: Carolina, Calypso or County Fair '83. In the mountains, try one of those or a variety called Liberty.

For slicing cukes, Poinsett, Sweet Slice, Salad Bush or Fanfare are good choices. County Fair '83 is good for both slicing and pickling, so if space is limited, use the variety that does double duty.

A quarter of a packet of seed per person should produce enough cucumbers for the season. Start seeds in the garden by the last week of May.

If you prefer to set out seedlings, even a light frost can kill them, so wait to set them out until night temperatures are consistently in the 50- to 60-degree range.

Plant in full sun, in loamy, well-drained soil. In the garden, plants allowed to run will need plenty of room. The pretty vines remind me of a dark green version of ornamental sweet potato vines, but with flowers and cucumbers, of course. You can also plant cukes in 3- to 5-gallon containers, in light, airy potting soil. Good drainage in containers is essential, so be sure the pots have unobstructed drain holes.

Because the vines require good air circulation for best production, it's a good idea to provide trellises for them to climb, in the garden or containers.

If training on trellises, attach the main stem with jute twine, strips of soft cloth or old pantyhose. As the plant grows, prune the first 4 to 6 lateral runners near the base of the vine to direct energy into vertical growth. Any lateral runners that appear after that can be allowed to wander where they will.

Avoid using insecticides on cucumber plants, because you may accidentally kill the honeybees that are the vegetable's most important pollinators. The best pest control is crop rotation. Change the area in which you plant cucumbers from year to year. For containers, start with fresh soil each time you plant.

Mulch cucumber beds or containers with straw or composted leaves to help control moisture levels, soil temperature and weeds.

Cook it

I think few vegetables are as refreshing and summery as fresh cucumbers (sorry, Carol). There's a reason for the expression "cool as a cucumber," because cukes always seem to be cooling on hot days. Maybe it's all the moisture in them.

Cucumbers are members of the gourd family and were first cultivated in Thailand or India.

The term "pickling cucumbers" typically refers to small cucumbers, 3 inches or so long. These are ideal for making pickles because the slices are small and the seeds are tiny. The skin is thin, rough and of a paler yellow-green than that of slicing cucumbers. They usually don't need peeling.

The larger, dark-green cukes known as "slicing cucumbers" are well-known denizens of supermarket produce sections. These are less suitable for pickling because of the size of the slices, and because the larger seeds can be bitter. Scoop the seeds out with a spoon if you don't like their flavor.

I prefer to peel the larger cukes because I think the peel tastes bitter. (If you purchase waxed cucumbers at a supermarket, you should definitely peel them.) I don't have that problem with the smaller ones. Actually, I use the "pickling cucumbers" for sandwiches and salads, if I can find great fresh ones at farmers markets.

"Burpless cucumbers" or "English cucumbers" are virtually seedless, up to 2 feet long, and are usually sold wrapped in plastic. I don't think they have as much flavor as other varieties.

Cucumbers play nicely with fresh dill or chives, and cucumber sticks can even liven up a gin and tonic.

This recipe is an old Southern favorite. When I was growing up, a bowl of this salad lived in my family's refrigerator all summer. The difference in my version is that I enjoy tart flavors, so I use less sugar. Feel free to add more sugar to the dressing if your tastes lie more in that direction. This recipe is from my new cookbook, "Fan Fare: A Playbook of Great Recipes for Tailgating or Enjoying the Game at Home" (Harvard Common Press, 2007).

Recipes

Fresh Cucumber Salad