Some restaurants celebrate the anniversary of their opening by giving their customers a free appetizer or dessert. For Xios (say HEE-os, with the "X" sounding like the glottal "ch" in challah), a Greek restaurant that celebrates its third anniversary this weekend in Apex, that's not enough. Not by a long shot.

From 3 to 7 p.m. Saturday, Xios owners Kirk and Denise Hatzidakis are throwing a "Big Fat Greek Festival," and everyone is invited. For aspiring cooks, the restaurant is sponsoring a hummus recipe contest, with a top prize of a $100 gift certificate and a culinary gift basket (for details, check the restaurant's Web site; for the Hatzidakis family's hummus recipe, go to my blog: http://blogs.newsobserver.com/epicurean/).

Other free festivities will include traditional Greek folk music, belly dancing, a magic act, and activities for children such as face painting, balloon animals and a kids' play center. Members of the Carolina RailHawks soccer team will be on hand to answer questions, sign autographs and share a few interactive soccer tricks.

But the big attraction for foodies of all ages will be the lamb, spit-roasted in the traditional Greek style and served as gyros. Chances are, unless you've had the good fortune to be invited to a Greek Easter celebration, you've never experienced this specialty. If, as is more likely, your gyros experience is limited to the commercial pressed-meat offerings served in most restaurants, you've got a most pleasant surprise in store.

If the gyros whets your appetite for further gastronomic adventure, you can head inside the restaurant for dinner anytime after 5:30 p.m. There, the full menu of specialties from the restaurant's namesake island of Xios will be served, along with a number of lamb specials. Kirk Hatzidakis' parents, George and Julia, natives of Xios whose recipes are the foundation for the menu (and who still sometimes cook at the restaurant) will be on hand for the celebration.

Why such an extravaganza? "We've been overwhelmed by the support we've gotten from the community," says Denise Hatzidakis. "We wanted to do something to say thank you." Speaking as a member of that community - and as someone who hasn't had authentic lamb gyros in a long, long time - I'd say the gratitude goes both ways.

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