Second Helping

When I reviewed La Shish a few months after its January 2003 opening, I found the savory Middle Eastern fare rewarding for the most part, if inconsistent. But I was blown away by the baklava. Featuring finely chopped walnuts and shatter-crisp phyllo drizzled with just enough sugar syrup to sweeten the pastry without making it soggy, this was easily the best baklava I'd had in the Triangle. The overall experience, sweet and savory, added up to a 21/2 star rating.

Then, a year and a half ago, the owners sold the Cary restaurant. New owners Nabila and Nabil Bahai gave the place a makeover, transforming it from a minimally furnished counter service eatery to a cozy dining room with fresh flowers, candlelight by night and full table service. Naturally, I was curious about what changes the new owners had in mind for the food, as well.

I'm happy to report that the new La Shish is better than the old one in almost every way. Kebabs -- chicken, lamb, kofta and beef tenderloin -- are consistently toothsome, and salads are fresh. Attention to detail and authenticity are evident everywhere you look (and taste), from the dusting of sumac on the creamy hummus to the minty brightness of the tzatziki to the whisper of orange blossom in the fresh-squeezed lemonade. Beef shawarma is succulent against a backdrop of caramelized onion, and spanakopita -- a weakness at the old La Shish -- is stellar. Of everything I sampled -- and I sampled pretty much everything over the course of two visits -- the only misfire was falafel whose crust was too hard and whose interior was too dry.

Nabila Bahai, who runs the restaurant, is an attentive and welcoming hostess who quickly gets to know regulars by name. Nabil, her husband, works in the insurance business. He helped get the restaurant off the ground and continues to contribute his extensive experience in the Lebanese restaurant business. The Bahais share a dedication to scratch preparation and quality ingredients, using organic produce and humanely raised livestock whenever they can do so without pricing themselves out of the market (dinner entree combination plates average $10-$12).

Now that the new owners have gotten their first restaurant up to speed, they plan to expand the menu. In the meantime, La Shish is already good enough to earn a 31/2 star rating.

Oh, and the baklava is as good as ever.