Garrett McNamara riding a big wave during a tow-in surfing session in Nazaré, Portugal, in 2015. McNamara set a world record for the largest wave surfed on a 78-foot swell in Nazaré.
Garrett McNamara riding a big wave during a tow-in surfing session in Nazaré, Portugal, in 2015. McNamara set a world record for the largest wave surfed on a 78-foot swell in Nazaré. FRANCISCO LEONG AFP/Getty Images File Photo
Garrett McNamara riding a big wave during a tow-in surfing session in Nazaré, Portugal, in 2015. McNamara set a world record for the largest wave surfed on a 78-foot swell in Nazaré. FRANCISCO LEONG AFP/Getty Images File Photo

A big-wave great ponders the surf after the wipeout of a lifetime

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