One of the characters keeps reminding another that he's "over his depth." I feel like that character where wine is concerned. I'm definitely over my depth beyond the basics, but at least I know it. So, much of what follows is gleaned from other sources. As those who know the subject might say, there is more balance that way and, hopefully, a satisfying finish.

Todd Johnson, an N.C. State and Culinary Institute of America graduate who is opening a restaurant in Richmond, Va., says a key is picking a wine that will "stand up to" the stronger, distinctive flavors of many game dishes. For one of the most popular game dishes, grilled venison, he suggested a big Cabernet or an Australian Shiraz.

"They are both full-bodied and full of flavor," he said. "Or you may consider a Zinfandel, which can be spicy and will contain many of the flavors used in preparing venison, including juniper berries, allspice or black peppercorns."

Johnson said if you're not too concerned about pairing the venison with a wine but want to serve something that will still go well with the dish, a Pinot Noir is a good choice.

A number of Internet sources can be very helpful with game and wine parings. A good place to start is www.wine.newarchaeology.com, which lists recommended wines not only for game and fish but just about every food category you can imagine. Here are a few selected observations from the site about fish and game.

There once was a simple guideline that suggested only having white wine with fish. However, rules are made to be broken. This is particularly true with meatier fishes such as tuna and swordfish. According to the site, try reds such as Merlot, Pinot Noir or Beaujolais with these fishes and favor the whites with milder, more delicate fish.

The site observes that with game, "Australian Shiraz or Merlot are our standard choices when we want something we 'know' will be good but any robust wine such as Grenache, Zinfandel and Pinotage have also proved successful in the past."

With regard to game, the site observes that most game birds go really well with rich fruity Pinot Noir wines. "In general reds seem to go better with the earthy robust nature of game and the accompanying rich game stocks than white wines do," it said. But, duck is a little different.

"Remember that the essential nature of duck is sweet and fatty. Therefore a 'greasy' wine such as a Viognier or Chardonnay, which is often served with chicken, will not work so well. Think about the gamy flavors and opt for a strong Burgundy red instead. A robust Pinot is just what a duck needs."

Then, just when you think you've gotten a few basics down pat, the site says, "However, if the duck is being served with an orange sauce, then a Chardonnay suddenly becomes an excellent accompaniment."

For another take on the subject, consider this excerpt from an article titled Julia Sevenich's "How Wine Tames the Wild Beast" at www.stratsplace.com.

"This article is not about cultivating savages at your next wine-tasting party, but if the title captured your attention, perhaps you'd enjoy a few tips about matching wine and game. ...

"The more discreet the gamy flavor and the simpler the cooking preparation, the easier the wine choice will be. A grilled steak from young venison or a filet from wild rabbit wrapped in bacon and fried in a skillet will find a good marriage with nearly any full-bodied wine without bitter tones. For roasts from mature beasts or meat braised in sauce, a Burgundy-type wine with soft, rounded tannins is a better choice.

"Wine with ripe fruit aromas, such as compote or dried stone fruit, generally complement spicy game flavors nicely. ...

"Game season is in the cooler months and is the perfect chance to serve those heady wines from hotter climates. Fiery wines with 14 or even 15 percent alcohol often harmonize wonderfully with game dishes. The meat is usually quite lean and can tend to taste slightly dry. A voluptuous inviting wine with a bold alcohol content builds a good contrast."