What that spotlight will show, however, is as unclear as the smog that smugly drifts over Beijing, impervious to all efforts to remove it. Some things simply can't be hidden with a fresh coat of paint and a few billion dollars worth of new facilities.

Tonight's opening ceremonies will undoubtedly be spectacular -- a choreographed production years in the making.

But what about when the Summer Games actually begin? What about when the choreography stops and the spontaneity starts? That's when these Olympics will deliver their signature moments. That's when China -- for better or for worse -- will show its true self.

The Chinese people are trying incredibly hard to pull this off. Everywhere I have gone this week in Beijing, people have volunteered to help me, often two or three at a time. They smile frequently, speak English decently and seem curious about the Western world. Several Chinese college students have already told me about their dreams of visiting -- or living in -- America.

The Chinese have tried to make these Olympics easy on us English speakers. Most of the signs here have been translated into English, sometimes with endearing results. I saw one sign posted above a highway with an illustration of a driver who was yawning.

The caption read: "Do not drive tiredly."

But there are also disturbing reminders that this is a communist country, one where secrecy, scare tactics and worse are all part of the deal.

Joey Cheek, the speedskater from Greensboro, became a well-known athlete-activist after winning a gold medal. He planned to come here to promote his effort urging China to help make peace in war-torn Darfur.

Hours before he was supposed to travel to Beijing, Cheek's visa was revoked by Chinese authorities. There have also been a flurry of reports about censorship during the run-up to the games after China backtracked on its pledge of total freedom for the 20,000 journalists covering these Games.

The U.S. official delegation, however, stands completely behind China's effort and worries (probably too much) about offending its host. Thus the four U.S. cyclists who wore protective masks during their arrival in Beijing on Tuesday were issuing a joint statement a day later.

"We offer our sincere apologies to BOCOG [the Chinese Olympic organizing committee], the city of Beijing and the people of China if our actions were in any way offensive," the cyclists' statement read. "That was not our intent. ... It was in no way meant to serve as an environmental or political statement. We deeply regret the nature of our choices."

All that genuflecting over masks?

It makes you realize how much money is at stake at these games, and how many big U.S. corporations would love to make more inroads in China.

Of course, medals are at stake, too. China and the U.S. will compete for the No.1 slot in the medal count -- a spot traditionally held by the Americans in the Summer Games. Trying to lower expectations, the U.S. delegation has said it expects to finish No. 2 behind China in the medal count this year.

It's quite possible China could win the medal battle but lose the public-relations war here. Much will depend on China's official response when the unexpected occurs, like an athlete protesting on the medal stand or, God forbid, a terrorist strike.

So "driving tiredly" could be the least of China's problems when these Olympics close down Aug. 24. Or China may win over the world, reacting to both its victories and defeats with grace.

It is hard to know which way it will go, just as it is hard to tell here when the smog will ever lift.

Most days the smog just sits there, a literal cloud over these games. But some days it disappears for a while, allowing rays of sunshine to illuminate one of the world's most mysterious, beautiful and disquieting cities.